Saturday, 15 February 2014

Analysing - robe a la circassienne

So, the robe a la circassienne.
Again, here is a link to my pinterest board that hosts both Robes a la Turque and Robes a la Circassienne. I find there are so many references on fashion plates as to what kind of style it is, with so many differences and sometimes contradictions, that I am just trying to show a few things that I think the sources I have at hand seem to have in common. Here is also a very interesting link with sources (ample!) and translations.

The robe a la Circassienne seems to have been around in the late 1770s and the  early 1780s. I haven't found an original robe (anyone can point me in the right direction here?) but there are fashion plates and paintings.

The Robe a la Circassienne again, like the Robe a la Turque, is named after a region that borders on the black sea.
Unlike the Robe a la Turque, the Circassienne seems to have the skirt part cut separate. the majority seems to be worn over some sort of corset (a long sleeved top), with back closure. There a a few that seem to close in the front, but I am not sure about the construction. Maybe it's just closed over a top.
The back seems seem to be emphasized by ribbons in contrasting colour.
The sleeves are short over either a long narrow sleeve or a very fluffy mostly white chemise like sleeve. Or a tightish sleeve with LOTS of frills.
The whole thing is VERY frilly! The more the merries, as far as I understand. It's quite mad, all in all!
The fashion plates also have in common that there is some sort of collar or very emphasized neckline.
AND a looped-up skirt (apart from one fashion plate, which also shows a dress that is unusually unfrilly).
Generally the Robe a la Circassienne reminds me a lot of Candy Floss, but there are a few examples that are a little "quieter". 

Let's have a look at some pictures, again, direct you attention towards the skirt (looped), sleeves (double layerd), neckline (lots of extras).

This is pure craziness: LEOPARD print!!! pouffy sleeves in this one.

Young Lady in a Circassienne trimmed with blonde lace, decorated with a streaked ribbon, wearing a romantic Hat and a loose, braided chignon. (1778)

Robe à la Circassienne Garnie à la Chartres: la Coëffure de meme, Avec le Tableau des Evenements, from

Gallerie des Modes et Costumes, Robe à la Circassienne, 1770's,

Young Woman Admiring a Miniature by Wille, 1778.

Galerie des Modes, 35e Cahier, 4e Figure Circassienne with bands of another color, edged with muslin. The coiffure is a cap à la Créche belted with a double row of ribbon with a bow on top of the Phisionomie. (1780)

Circassienne with a colored ground, with bands of painted fabric and a little band of pleated gauze around it; the petticoat is of another color, and the trim of the petticoat matches that of the gown. The coiffure is a hat à la Grenade. (1780). A Most Beguiling Accomplishment: Galerie des Modes

Galerie des Modes, 29e Cahier, 2e Figure New Circassienne in Italian Gauze, lined with Indian taffeta; it is trimmed in Gauze, pinched in coques with bouquets of delphiniums, the whole edged with an English Ribbon. The Coiffure is a toque: long hair surmounted with a toque à l'Espagnole, trimmed with Heron plumes and aigrettes. (1780)

Galerie des Modes, 21e Cahier, 6e Figure Taffeta circassienne with bands of ribbons, with a petticoat of another color trimmed with gauze in little box pleats, and trimmed with three large bands of different colored ribbons. (1779)

Galerie des Modes, 28e Cahier, 5e Figure Young Bourgeois Actress studying her role; she is dressed in a Circassienne, the petticoat trimmed with a band in the color of the gown: all the trims are bordered with a blonde lace, a volant of gauze at the bottom of the band on the petticoat: the sleeves trimmed with gauze. (1780) : UNUSUAL: skirt not looped up!!!

Galerie des Modes, 13e Cahier, 1e Figure This Circassienne of a new taste is of sulphur-colored gauze, the trim of soft lilac gauze; the great flounce and the band which covers the trim are of the same gauze as the gown, the base of the sabot cuffs as well; there are only bands of trim in tuyaux which are lilac, lilac ribbons, the same are in the headdress. (1778)

I hope you've enjoyed my little attempt of understanding the Robe a la Circassienne. If you have some more ideas and pictures, share them with me!

Thursday, 13 February 2014

An apple a day....

I am not entirely sure WHY, but I've had LOTS of this crazy 70s apple fabric (cotton 100%) lying around here... waiting. Patiently.

It's called "Wendelin" from Swafing. 
And it really is a lot of apples.
I've made a duvet cover and a pillow case for the little one from it.

bubble dress based on Minikrea Spencer 20004
And a Pinafore (Ottobre Design 1/12 "Home sweet Home")
And a Ballonbuks (Minikrea 20301)
And a Bubble dress (with the help of Minikrea 20004)

For the Bubble dress I took the Minikea Pattern "Spencer" (20004) and used the dress (sz 92) as the lining. I then cut a piece of the apple fabric that is about 2 inches longer and slightly wider at the bottom to be the outer dress. To gather the bottom of the apple fabric nicely, I used Framilon/Framilastic/transparents elastic, 10mm. SO easy!! The dress closes with 2 little heart shaped buttons in red at the top.

Minikrea Ballonbuks 20301

pinafore Home Sweet Home OD 1/12

 The pinafore closes with 2 snaps. I've used dark red cotton as a lining. And instead of using  bias tape (as suggested in the Ottobre Design) I just sewed them together right on right, leaving a small gap to turn the whole thing and then topstitching it all the way round.

And I've STILL got fabric left. I might keep it and use it as a lining for a hoodie hood. For myself. ;)

And I am still brooding over starting my next historical sewing projects: Another pair of stays (JPR, to be finished until April this year) AND a complete outfit for a peasant (to be finished until August...). And the little one needs a dress for August, too...

Sunday, 2 February 2014

More crazy shirts - Ottobre Design Mail Express and Pinaatti

I've got so much jersey fabric here and I am still hesitating to start my new historical  sewing project (despite pattern (adjusted), material and stuff sitting right in front of me...) - so with the weekend being here I've made two MORE dresses/shirts for the little one.

The first one is the tunic "Mail express" from OD 1/12. SO easy! I didn't have any Framilon so I just squeezed the jersey together. Works, too. ;)

Mail express, ottobre design 1/12

The next shirt is based on the Pinaatti (did you know that means SPINACH?!?!)  shirt, I've used the alterations I had made for the Mini-Martha Pullover (divided front) and made it into a cross-cover front. I originally wanted the right side on top, but I (again) got confused somewhere in the middle so the left side is on top now. Does it really matter...? ;)
Anyway, both are still a bit big for the little one, but Nature solves that problem.
Again, SOOO easy to put together, took about 2 hrs all in all (both shirts...). I do love that about thos small modern things.
Variation of Pinaatti OD 1/10

Have a great week!

Saturday, 1 February 2014

Ottobre Design 1/10 Pinaatti Sheep

Just another little quick shirt for the little one. I've had this fabric for ages (and still have quite a bit of it left...), it's a soft jersey material. The pattern is from the Ottobre Design magazine 1/10, Pinaatti I think it is called (same as last time) Still love it. I've tried something new (the pockets) but I think maybe it would be easier with some vlieseline to back it. ;)Maybe also the pockets should have been further up, but it looks good on the child, so no worries.