Thursday, 19 December 2013

1780/90s Blue Zone Gown





Journal des Luxus und der Moden March 1793 >KLICK!!<


Above, from the 3/1793 issue of the "Journal des Luxus und der Moden" - pp. 163
"[...] 2) Aus Teutschland
vom Rhein, den 20. Febr. 1793.
hier folgen einige Bemerkungen, die ich unterm Gewuehle und Getuemmel der Kriegsheere, das sich taeglich bey uns vermehrt, ueber die neuen Geschenke der Goettin Mode, die darum nicht aussen bleiben, habe machen koennen. 
Zuerst eine Figur von der jetzigen ganz artigen Tracht unserer jungen Frauenzimmer (Taf. 7.). Ein blaues Kleid von einem seidenen FruehjahrsZeuche, weißgefuettert; Rock und Kleid uni, ohne alle Garnirung; das Corset weiß; ein weißes Halstuch von Linon und den Kopf nicht so franzoesisch hineingepackt, als wenn sich der schoene jugendliche Hals, wegen eines haeßlichen Kropfes wegen, nicht duerfte sehen lassen. Das Haar in natuerlichen Locken, nur halb gepudert, und drauf eine Art von Carcasse von Band, die aus 5 Ribben von blau und weißem Bande besteht, zwischen welchen die lockigt-frisirten Haare allenthalben durchgucken.Ueberhaupt werden Huete anjezt blos zum aeussersten Morgen-Negligee zum Anzuge aber gar nicht mehr, und zu diesem blos von jungen Personen solche Band-Carcassen, von aelteren Damen aber kleine sehr schmale Haeubchen getragen. Dieß muß ich Ihnen als etwas Neues berichten. [...]"



So,

My previous research has led me to the conclusion for my interpretation of the zone-gown

1. It's to be worn over a "corset"
2. The back of the Gown will have 4 back panels and extra shoulder straps, Front A shape.
3. The skirt will most likely not be lined as it was rather unusual (unless i happen to find something suitable in my fabric stash).
4. worn over bum pad, no train.
5. fabric is blue, greenish iridescent silk taffeta.
6. petticoat slightly shorter for practical reasons.

With A shaped stomacher (bottom line unfinished)


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The corset is the base of the thus recycled "kitsch corset" (that I never wore, twas a good exercise in attaching bias tape though... ... ...) so really it is a version of the Period Impressions half boned stays. I have removed most of the bones and just left a few in the front and around the back lacing. I also made small changes to the front and removed the taps. Then I added two layers of ivory silk taffeta. Just one layer looked a bit thin and flimsy. I also made a A shaped stomacher, just to have another option. The Stomacher still needs a bit of shortening, but I think the general idea is clear. ;) 


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I have based the bodice on the JPR Anglaise, that fitted quite well. I then changed the front to have the A shaped gap (about 1,5" at the top and just above the highest point of the hip bones at the sides (spina iliaca anterior superior)). The front in the picture seems to be nearly at the back. I am not sure about how far back it acutally went, but I didn't want it to be too far back so I settled for hip bone. Maybe the picture sort of shows front and side at the same time for illustration (who knows...), a bit of early cubism. ;)
I made a mock-up and then changed the back panels and shoulder strap and I actually made 4 real pieces in the back (not a fake 4-pieces-back as I had initially planned). I took the Anglaise pcitured below as an example but made slight changes. As those changes moved the sleeves in a bit, I had to change the sleeve pattern accordingly (and i HATE setting sleeves in!!! Sleeves are my pet hate in sewing, I find I always have to make changes to make them look the way I want and it takes AGES!). I prefer 3/4 length sleeves to long sleeves and so I didn't extend them. Also I planned to make the bottom of the bodice back not arrow but box shaped. Unfortunately I completely forgot about altering the skirt part fabric to match so I ended up making a triangular shape. Attaching those folds neatly to the bodice was really getting to me, I needed 3 tries and due to the nature of the tafetta I had to stop and be content with the way the back pleats of the skirt are now. I have certainly learned for the next Anlaise! ;)
I initially  had planned to make another skirt for some change (in ivory, like the Corset/stomacher) but when I pinned it to the dummy to get an idea what it would look like, i really didn't like it. the white A-Shapw with white skirt underneath the turquoise just looked boring and bland. So I decided in just making on skirt in turquoise. The skirt is a bit shorter than the one on the fashion plate, for practicality.Also I had to piece the skirt back, as I ran 20cms short... you can't see it anyway, I pieced it with some black tafetta. ;) 




MetMuseum Anglaise

And I am admitting: These fabrics have been maturing in my fabric stash for more than 2 (nearly 3!!) years!!!


And that Hat is STILL absolutely mental. In the picture below her nice earrings are visible, though. A hook with a plate and something in the middle (possibly a gemstone). It's always good to know what was available back then. ;)


I'm not making it, because it reminds me of this christmas nightmare below. And I have the suspicion those bands on bands will just look like a big wobbly pouf. A "Carcasse" hat, ... REALLY!!

from amazon.



2 comments:

  1. Woooooow!!!! That dress is absolutely fabulous!! Love the colors and the way it drapes!! Swoon!! Very well done!

    Blessings!
    Gina

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    Replies
    1. Thank you, Gina! Have a lovely Christmas!

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