Tuesday 24 July 2018

Premade Pattern vs Self-draft pattern

When I started drafting patterns, I thought something like "wow, this is so cool, I can now draft EVERYTHING I would like to sew/wear". And while in theory, that is true, the reality of it is a little different.

I am not a seamstress. I need instructions. I can now draft patterns (a little), I can put them together somehow and I understand a lot better now, what changes are neccessary to make them fit better. (Which is why starting to draft patterns and making lots of toiles is a great way to get to know your physiognomy and fit issues and how to solve them)

But I lack the actual sewing skills. There are so many ways to put garments together and to construct them - I don't even know where to get all of that information. Even my Vogue sewingbook, despite being very full of information, didn't really give me the answer how to construct a garment.

And that's when Premade patterns are really good. If you have a premade pattern from a company that gives lots of help and hints on constructing the garment, you can go further from that. (I really like the instructions from closet case patterns, scroop patterns and ottobre design, just to name a few)- I love learning from them and getting to know their methods of assembling clothes. The little tricks and good shortcuts. And hints, where you really should not take a shortcut...

I've now drafted a few garments for myself, but for me, the advantage of a premade pattern are clearly the instructions.

Funny enough, I only understood what "a good fit" is, when I got into my little bit of 18th century sewing. If the bodice crumples over the stays, it is just not good. That's not the way it is supposed to be. If the stays are uncomfortable - they don't fit. It took me quite a while to get from historical clothing to modern sewing ... but now I am enjoying even more to make my every-day self-made wardrobe. The way I want. Not what fashion magazines tell me to wear. And RTW that doesn't fit anyway.

I can only encourage everyone out there to do a bit of pattern drafting (e.g. a basic pencil skirt and a basic bodice) and then after understanding your bodyshape - go for indie patterns!

Tuesday 17 July 2018

Knickerrrrrs!! (and a horse)

there is absolutely no way I show you my bottom in self made undies.
Have a look at this cutie instead. 

Hi guys, as you can see, I am going from one project to the next in no time. From Ginger Jeans to knickerrrss!! The steep... erm.. difference in complexity makes me laugh. My crazy patterns make me laugh, too. I've got very happy underwear now (fabric remains from nearly every knit project I've ever made...) Is there anything better? :)

I used this pattern from "So, Zo...", it's free and comes with easy instructions. Perfect.

Pattern: http://sozowhatdoyouknow.blogspot.de/2012/12/free-downloadable-pdf-pattern-pants_4.html
Instructions: http://sozowhatdoyouknow.blogspot.de/2010/08/how-to-construct-undies-with-serger-and.html

As far as I know there is also a free pattydoo pattern but I've not tried that.

It is fun.
I've played a bit with pattern designs, because I wanted to try out 1. enclose the gusset and 2. have a bit of a leg, too, which all works fine.

The good thing about cutting the gusset piece extra is the even more economic use of fabric. And it  also looks neater.

I can strongy recommend making knickers. It is a brilliant project to use up knit jersey scraps, is very satisfying (because quick) and hey, any complaints about fitting knickers EVER heard? No. See. Make knickers. Even if they don't fit, they won't be worse than storebought AND you can improve the pattern.

With the first few pairs I made a few mistakes: Because I feared the waistband would be too tight (and didn't trust the elastic and my sewing skills), I didn't stretch the elastic enough so some of them sort of roll away from by lower back. Which looks stupid. I also used a slightly too wide binding.I've used 19mm width first, which is just a tad too wide. The second batch was made with 14mm wide FOE (fold over elastic) and that is just perfect.

Wednesday 11 July 2018