Black Asymmetry - Twister Dress

Although you can't see it in this picture, I AM smiling. Inside. And aren't those boots lovely?

As you might have noticed, I like this pattern. And after giving away the Black Disco Twister Dress, I was just waiting until I could make my own Twister Dress. I have to admit, the first one, despite the fact that I love the pattern.... it actually did turn out to be a bit "loud" on me... erm... like my husband already knew... yes. Anyhow, I wore it a few times, but it never really seemed to fit in.
As my favourite color (in clothing) seems to be black, I should really start making everything in black first, because that's what I am actually wearing. 

So here is the Twister Dress again, by Apfelblüte https://www.burdastyle.com/patterns/my-neon-twister-dress

I've already worn it once, to my very first Tango Milonga, as I've started to learn Tango argentino lately. I would say, it is the perfect dress for Tango, but what do I know...

A Ginger Parade!! (without Parade)

Ginger No 4

So I've made several Gingers by now... the very first one in dark blue and then 2 more dark blue ones and 2 black fine corduroy trousers.

And what about the Parade?  - There's only one picture! Well, I lost a bit of weight and this is the only pair of trousers, that fits well at the moment. You have to imagine the others. :) And I have to make another pair... :)

Material
2x black corduroy: nice weight, 370g/m, 95% cotton, 5% elasthane
2x stretch denim blue: 97% cotton, 3% elasthane, 10oz

I think I look like scared squirrel in this picture.
But trust me, the jeans fit well. And I am not scared. 

Jade Skirt(s) - Paprika Patterns

For whatever reason - I look "not amused" -
although i LOVE the skirt and the pattern

I've been looking at this pattern for ages and recently I've started dancing again and had absolutely NOTHING to wear... ahem... no, seriously, as I've not been dancing for about 10 years, the stuff I was wearing back then just doesn't exist any more (apart from the shoes, they are still brilliant...). So I decided a skirt from knit fabric is just the right thing for summer. Perfect occasion to make Paprika Patterns Jade Skirt.

I think it's a brilliant pattern. I made the version without a zipper (although I even had one here...). I started with a Mini version in purple, meant as a sort of (very) wearable muslin. And then I made a Midi length in a teal colour. ... and then I remembered that lovely black satin stretch fabric in the cellar... and made another one. And then, because I just couldn't get enough, I made one from black Punto di Roma. And didn't blog about it for a year. :) 

This is me, in a skirt. Hilarious. 

Absolutely nothing happens, when I lift my arms.
So why not do it?

I made a few mistakes (which wasn't the patterns fault), the biggest one being catching a few of those folds while sewing them to the lining, but as it was just a few stitches and didn't really show, I didn't bother to unpick my lightning stitch. Next time I will definitely take more care. Everything else went really smoothly, the instructions are precise and not fussy. I planned to make the zipper version on the Midi length one, but as it was no problem getting into the Mini skirt, I didn't bother. It might be a different matter altogether, if you use a more sturdy fabric. I used a light to medium weight (more on the light side) 95% cotton 5% elasthane knit - it was the same fabric just in different colors. I imagine a more sturdy fabric might need the zipper. I don't think the skirt needs a much thicker fabric though, because of all the layering even lighter jersey knit gets a bit of "substance" - because of the pleating and the lining, there are 6 layers of fabric in a few places!! 

I've also read, that some people use interfacing on the waistband (which probably then requires the zipper version). It might look a bit more "substancial" with interfacing, as I usually wear a shirt over my dress and my fabric has a good recovery, I didn't try that. I certainly wouldn't recommend a flowy fabric like viscose or rayon or a very thin knit, it doesn't work for this pattern. It's meant to have a bit of weight. 

rock'n'roll satin - and a silly face

Making the (first) skirt took me two evenings: one evening to tape the pattern together and wash and dry the fabric (never forget prewashing!) and one evening to copy the pattern in my size and cut and sew it. Easy as pie! I especially like the fact, that the seams are wedged between lining and outer fabric, which gives the whole thing a really nice finish. You can also use the pattern pieces fo the lining as a pattern for a simple knit fabric mini or midi skirt. :)

Paprika Patterns are great, it's a bit different, totally practical and lots of tips and hints and helps and videos on the homepage. I find the instructions very clear and the graphics in the instructions well made. Great Pattern!

I love it! Totally love it!! It is soooo comfy and I think it looks great!

PS: Having the pictures taken took me more than 12 months... I have worn them a lot in all sorts of weather, definitely one of my favourite clothes!!! The black version also looks great with strangely coloured or patterned tights. I think. :) 

_______________________________

Cost:

Pattern: 12 US Dollars (about 10,50 Euros), download https://www.paprikapatterns.com/shop/jade-skirt/

Fabric and notions: purple 20 euros, teal 25 Euros, black satin - from stash, black 15 Euros; yarn 7,50 Euros

(For the Mini skirt in size 2 (waist) to size 4 (hips) I need 1,2m fabric (but that's quite tight, I would buy 140cm next time. Width of the fabric was 150cm. 

Twister Dress Disco Ball

Before I tell you how easy and quickly to assemble this dress is, I have to admit a few things

1. I like making things again that went well before.
2. I have the urge to make more twister dresses.
3. I made this dress as a friend's birthday present.
4. After seeing the pictures, I am SO tempted to keep it (but I won't)
5. I might make a disco-ball twister dress for myself
6. I like assymmetrical things.

Anyhow, I used a stretchy velvety fabric that had the sequins mounted (I would love to see the machine that puts sequins on fabric...) and just followed the instructions for the ingenious Twister Dress by Apfelblüte: https://www.burdastyle.com/patterns/my-neon-twister-dress

I LOVE the pattern. It is SO extremely easy and so fast to put together. I would say, if you manage to put a pdf pattern together without too much trouble, you can make this dress in no time. It takes about 1 hour to make. With cutting and making small adjustments. I made the neck opening a little wider and the long sleeve a little tighter. I also prefer wearing the longer sleeve at 3/4 length, but I wear it pushed up, I didn't shorten the sleeve).

You can see more examples on the burda page and also a great batty version here:
http://www.oonaballoona.com/2011/05/sew-weekly-sunday-shes-gone-completely.html

Here is another view

And just in case you ask yourself, what to do with a disco ball dress like that - listen to this music!

Knickerrrrrs!! (and a horse)

there is absolutely no way I show you my bottom in self made undies.
Have a look at this cutie instead. 

Hi guys, as you can see, I am going from one project to the next in no time. From Ginger Jeans to knickerrrss!! The steep... erm.. difference in complexity makes me laugh. My crazy patterns make me laugh, too. I've got very happy underwear now (fabric remains from nearly every knit project I've ever made...) Is there anything better? :)

I used this pattern from "So, Zo...", it's free and comes with easy instructions. Perfect.

Pattern: http://sozowhatdoyouknow.blogspot.de/2012/12/free-downloadable-pdf-pattern-pants_4.html
Instructions: http://sozowhatdoyouknow.blogspot.de/2010/08/how-to-construct-undies-with-serger-and.html

As far as I know there is also a free pattydoo pattern but I've not tried that.

It is fun.
I've played a bit with pattern designs, because I wanted to try out 1. enclose the gusset and 2. have a bit of a leg, too, which all works fine.

The good thing about cutting the gusset piece extra is the even more economic use of fabric. And it  also looks neater.

I can strongy recommend making knickers. It is a brilliant project to use up knit jersey scraps, is very satisfying (because quick) and hey, any complaints about fitting knickers EVER heard? No. See. Make knickers. Even if they don't fit, they won't be worse than storebought AND you can improve the pattern.

With the first few pairs I made a few mistakes: Because I feared the waistband would be too tight (and didn't trust the elastic and my sewing skills), I didn't stretch the elastic enough so some of them sort of roll away from by lower back. Which looks stupid. I also used a slightly too wide binding.I've used 19mm width first, which is just a tad too wide. The second batch was made with 14mm wide FOE (fold over elastic) and that is just perfect.

My "loud" Twister dress

t's asymmetrical, it's loud, it's weird, it's as comfy as pyjamas and I couldn't care less what other people think about it, because THIS is the most comfortable dress EVER!

I'm in a bit of a sewing frenzy at the moment... I am amazed, how many project are suddenly coming together without any stress. And I am grateful for the joy it is giving me.

My latest project is the burdastyle.com twister dress. It is a free pattern by apfelbluete, who is also the host of the brilliant sewinggalaxy blog

UPDATE: Since Burda has remade their homepage, the pattern has unfortunately disappeared. Which is a real shame. I do not own the rights to the patterns, so I do not want to put them online, however as long as sewinggalaxy (see above) is up, you might want to try to contact the lady who put the pattern online originally. 

Here is the link to the free burdastyle pattern she provides in size 34-40
Neon Twister Dress Burdastyle.com
And the link to the full-figured version, also free
Twister Dress Plus Size Burdastyle.com

It takes absolutely no time to put the dress together. It uses a minimal amount of fabric (1,2m length x1,4m width) and anyting goes, as long as it is stretchy. I've bought some fabric on ebay which turned out to be wonderfully soft to wear and also great to work with. It is 95% cotton and 5% elasthan. I chose a fabric I usually wouldn't go for... my husband calls it a "loud" pattern - I agree. But somehow it works for me for this dress. In fact it is so incredibly comfortable, that it might be my favourite pattern of the year. I am already dreaming of another one with a supernova-space inspired pattern.... or just black with glittery stars? Or electric sparks or something like that? Oh my goodness, imagine this in sequins... gasp.... *love*- I think I am starting to hyperventilate here... 😍

I didn't make many changes to the pattern. I've cut a size 40 and lengthened it a bit (about 5cms) and I made the right sleeve tighter. Other than that I followed instructions. Including washing and drying the fabric it took me 2 days. The cutting and sewing was about 1 hour.

I think I was trying to run away half through taking pictures... 

______________________________
Cost: 
total: 20 Euros
Pattern: free downloadable pdf, paper, printer
fabric: 1,3m Jersey 19,50 Euros
notions: all in stock

Ginger Jeans - I did it!

I can't quite believe it myself, I made jeans!

And they fit. 

After a long long time of contemplating, of procrastinating and fretting about fabrics, my sewing skills and the "oomph" of my machine - my existing 2 pairs of jeans were slowly but surely falling apart. And despite my best efforts of mending them repeatedly...  it was time to face the fact: I need new jeans.

First I actually went to town and looked at jeans. Tried some. And got annoyed. I want low to just-mid rise flared jeans. Not too much "use" on them. Not too thin. Indigo blue. Really dark. This is not in fashion at the moment. I tried everything that was proclaimed to be my size. I even tried the very fashionable high waist skinny jeans - which sort of went up to my rib cage, were too long, to tight and just "uuhhrgh". It was a very very very frustrating experience.

And then I bought the much acclaimed Ginger Jeans pattern (with Flared Jeans extension pack) by Closet Case Patterns. 

I followed the instructions of the sewalong https://Closetcasepatterns.com/ginger-jeans-sewalong/

and it all went together fine. Surprisingly, the jeans are a little on the widish side... I am not entirely sure, why. I might have lost some weight (hm... how likely is that... hm...), the fabric has a poor recovery (doesn't seem like it, but who knows...), the pattern runs slightly wide (possible and most likely), I was taking my measurements too loosely (possible), I didn't cut close enough to the pattern, added some width while copying... I did notice this after basting them, so I used a more generous seam allowance (instead of 5/8" I used 6/8, but it's still a bit wide in the bottom and back thigh, especially after wearing them for a few days)

Anyhow - the jeans fit. They fit well enough for me. I have no issues with the crotch, no issues with matching, they don't twist and they are super comfy.  - it was a real WOW experience. Also my machine didn't buckle up once and sewed through up to 8 layers of jeans like butter (I did use a jeans needle though). 

What do I think of the pattern? - I LOVE IT! - 

The size is accurate, not supertight, but I didn't aim for that. The instructions are superclear, the sewalong is great and the possibilities for variations are SO vast. Heather also gives lots of instructions on fitting, in case you do have frown or smile lines. Or whatever other issues occur.

If you want to make jeans - make these! 

What I really liked was the precision of the pattern. Notches match, clear instructions, no blahblah and - if she says low rise it means low rise. Precision this is. 

I admit, I was VERY sceptical. My experience with sewing trousers is very limited to say the least. My confidence wasn't very big and because of my unique shape, I only anticipated problems. 

Just to give you an idea: My waist is a size 6 in her pattern, while my hip is a size 12 (although I would probably go down a size in the hip with the next pair... ). And in addition to this big waist-hip ratio, I have a sway back. And I am smaller that "standard women" (whatever that is... have never met one). 

I followed her fitting/grading instructions in the sewalong and the resulting pattern looked - curvy. I stuck with it bravely, because I thought - I calculated this, I followed instructions, it MUST work. And it did. The only thing I had to adjust was the waistband - which gaped. Like it always does. I could have cut a new waistband, but I took a shortcut (because I wanted to finish the jeans and going back to cutting fabric felt like a backstep... and I was lazy and impatient...). I made two darts in the waistband inside, clipped the excess fabric and transferred the changes to the pattern waistband. For next time. Yes, there will definitely be a next time. I might even use contrasting topstiching. :) 

I also really like her suggestions about the "insides" - coloured serger thread, nice fabric for the pockets - turned not inside the pockets but in a way you can actually SEE it when putting on the jeans. Yes, that makes me feel good. Talking about a serger. I own one - I didn't use it. I just zigzagged everything. I was plainly too lazy to put up the machine. 

The biggest challenge for me (sewing wise...) was the topstitching. Who would have thought that sewing two completely parallel lines is SO difficult. My husband giving me a glass of red wine with the sewing boosted my mood, but I wasn't sure about the topstitching skills... As I noticed later, it didn't do any harm, my parallelity the next day without wine looked exactly the same. I might have to practise that a little more and continue using toned down topstitch thread. :) 

My other issues are (and none of them have anything to do with the pattern fit...): the blue of the fabric. It is a little too blue. And even. I am not used to that. I might try and find some real indigo jeans fabric. Also the front pockets are quite wide. Which is ok in a way, because I CAN put my entire hand in it in case I have nothing else to do. But I think I would make them a tiny bit narrower next time. I also have the idea to copy the coin pocket my "nearly fallen apart jeans" - it's a small single welt pocket in the pocket lining -very cute). Other ideas for next time include more belt loops (I don't even own a belt...) and back pocket designs. My back pocket is plain, but I have this idea about an ECG or a WonderWoman logo thing. I would also move them up a tiny little bit. But maybe with making the next pair tighter, I won't need that. I might also try the mid-waist and high waist version with those shaping pockets. Maybe I could even try skinny jeans (the last time I wore skinny jeans was in 1999). I also had this GREAT pair of jeans (that also fell apart...) with add on front pockets that were square... I think I have a picture of me wearing them somewhere... but only a front view...) . ideas, ideas, ideas... why is sewing jeans so addictive? 

Finally, here are my Ginger Flares! Brand new! First time!

Ready?

I've casually put my hand in that pocket, so nobody has a chance to evaluate the fit.
You just have to believe me it's good. :) 

Posing naturally, this is what I do with walls on a normal day.
At least I didn't have to worry about my expression this way...
You can also see the jeans are a bit wide on the hip and leg after a couple of days of wearing them.
I don't mind, this is what my jeans usually look like. :) 

On the left you can see the adjustment darts for sway back I made on the waistband back.
And on the right my beautiful happy lining, which used to be a pillow case. :) 

_____________

Cost

Pattern: 17 euros

Print in Copyshop A0: 40 Euros (I wanted to try it out...very comfortable, but expensive.)

rivets 5,50

Buttons 4,70

Fabric - Stretch Jeans (97% cotton, 3% elasthane) 40 Euros

Yarn (sewing and topstitch) 4+3 = 7 Euros

jeans zip 3 Euros

I am planning the next pair already... :)

Otari Hoodie - Scroop Patterns Test

Namaste, guys!

So, I've had the honour to be a pattern tester for Leimomi Oakes (aka "the Dreamstress" from Scroop Patterns.) I can't say how happy that made me, and I owe it all to the neighbour's cat. :)

The pattern has officially been released today, it really did take me some effort to hold back this long. :)

Leimomi designed a basic hoodie pattern, which is really really neat. Really really neat. I can't say often enough, how neat this pattern is. My gosh, it is neat. And offers so much space for choosing fabrics. From elegant to cute and romantic to wild I'd say anything goes. You can buy the pattern here:   https://www.scrooppatterns.com/products/otari-hoodie (which I really recommend to do...)

There are two pocket and two hood views in it, that can be mixed. The instructions are very very clear, with super nice finishing touches for pockets and the zip (superneat!!), so this is a piece you even love to look at from the inside. Yes. Exactly. Maybe you know what I mean. A comfortable covered neckline (looks and feels good) and an ingenious covered zip (outside and inside, but you can also make it so the zip shows outside) make this look so professional. But at the same time, it is not difficult to make, so no worries, this is perfect pattern if you've not made a hoodie before. Also nice is the fact it doesn't need excessive amounts of fabric, so this hoodie can be made rather economically.

I've been wearing it a lot already and it's so comfy. As you can see, I've really tried with the pattern matching, but something happened at the center front. Whatever it was, it didn't have anything to to with the pattern.

I chose to make the pointy hood (as you probably noticed in the first picture..) and the bound pockets. The sizing is really precise and it has a nice close but not too tight fit. Just perfect. Apart from grading between the sizes, I didn't need to make any adjustments.

covered zip (inside and out) and bound neckline. Pockets bound. Neat. Superneat. 

I really enjoyed making this pattern. I was given it for free as a pattern tester (so obviously I had the test version) but I didn't receive anything else and all of these opinions are entirely my own.

Sewing plans for 2018

Photo by Fleur Treurniet on Unsplash

You wouldn't believe it, but I have plans for 2018. A lot of plans and also sewing plans. Here they are.


- A Dirndl (Bavarian style) for Little Miss No 1 for her first day to school (September). I have the pattern already and a book on Austrian Dirndl making, so I am trying to make it in a more traditional style, sort of a mix between Austrian and Bavarian (sorry), with cartridge pleats and apron and maybe even smocking. I have chosen a fabric already and I hope it won't be sold out by the time i get around to buying the supplies (probably July). (#DONE - I didn't have the time in the end to make it really traditional, but I think it's ubercute anyway - blogpost to come soon).

- Maybe a Dirndl for myself, using the same traditional techniques. Although that's not really a priority.

- It also seems my jeans are giving up - which means I will have to face the challenge to make trousers for myself. -  #DONE! I made Ginger Jeans!!! (I fact I made several n 2018 - FOUR! and I am planning Morgan Jeans...)

- black linen trousers for summer (remake of favourite summer trousers - which are falling apart, too... all trousers seem to be giving up on me this year) (#DONE!)

- also I would like to make a shirt with a massive cowl collar (check out gaiaconceptions.com's super cowl shirt; I ALSO really like their "love me 2 times sari simplicity" thingy ... would be nice to make that and dye it with natural dyes... some day...)

- and my biggest plan Using up fabric from the stash. I also have this lovely black satin jersey in the stash, which I might make into a pencil skirt, or into a backless shirt. Or a backless dress, if I have enough fabric. But again, I have to draft the pattern first, then make a muslin and then see... :) - which means I have to go through it thoroughly and think about what I really need. Maybe a Jade Skirt?

- I've also got a lot of scraps of knit fabric... maybe some undies (#DONE!)

- make a pillow cover from an old (favourite) t-shirt (that shrunk...) and fabric from stash

- I could do with a proper swimsuit and/or bikini that fits... I am tempted to make the Bombshell Swimsuit by Closetcase Patterns,  I need some good instructions (update: I got the pattern...)

- A woolen winter coat to replace the one that is falling apart... an "everyday winter coat"

- I am really eyeing up that Wrapped Cardigan by Seamly - that could be an Autumn Project. Or maybe I take the pattern from a cardigan I've got, which I really really like.

- Probably by the end of this year I will need to make some black t-shirts... long and short sleeved - mine are slowly gowing thin from washing... or maybe something like the Bethioua Shirt... maybe self drafted...

- I am thinking about making leggings, but these are not a priority

- I also am keen on making a Jade Skirt  by Paprika Pattern. So wonderfully asymmetrical! (' DONE  and I've even made 2 - picture and blogpost to come!)

- I've got the fabric for another Satsuki Tunic and a Vogue 8728 dress... in black.

I have the distinctive feeling, my plans for 2018 will make it into 2019 and possibly 2020. :)

In search of the perfect T-Shirt - Pattern drafting and an approximation (and lots of sheep)

Self drafted T Shirt! Nobody should look this stern with a self drafted shirt full of sheep. I don't know how I managed!

(If you just want the instructions for drafting a t-shirt and not so much talking: Here it is  How to draft Jersey shirt pdf)

And here is the talking:

Because my body is unique, I usually have problems with store-bought clothing:

1. the waist line is too low on me (sort of "on the hip", looks silly), because I am smaller than what standard clothes are made for. (if you want to know more about standard sizes in clothing  https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Clothing_sizes)

2. I have a comparably small waist  and bust in relation to my hip measurement (compared to standard sizing).

3. My hip point is lower than average.

4.  My shoulder width is rather small.

5. I have a sway back nobody seems to want to have anything to do with

Vogue Patterns calls this gallantly "triangle shape", I think it used to be called pear shape? :)

So, all in all with off-the-rack clothes, they are too long, the waist is in the wrong place and the hip width is too small, so if I wear e.g. a T-Shirt, that fits my upper body, the waistline is just a tad too low and the hips small (even with stretchy fabric) so everything is travelling upwards to the waistline with movement and I end up pulling shirts down all of the time, even if they seem to fit ok at first glance.

To cut a long story short, I decided to draft my own t-shirt pattern.
It is really easy, if you just follow instructions!

There are a lot of  tutorials on youtube, I used this one (in German) https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yQ3kdhVyMNM.


The thing you have to know about pattern drafting is this: It will give you a close approximation (probably closer to your body than any of the off the rack clothing is though...) and you have to make the fine tuning with a muslin on your body. Then you transfer the changes to your pattern. If you've made a lot of alterations or big alterations, I recommend making another muslin. Is is a lot of work and a lot of fabric potentially going to waste, but in the end you will have the perfect jersey shirt pattern. Which you will be able to use for all sorts of Jersey shirt variations.

And you will know a lot about you body and clothes fitting.

When you have a pattern finally, bear in mind, that changes to the neckline might need more changes in the upper bodice than just cutting the neckline. Jersey fabric is rather forgiving, but still, everything you change in the fabric might have consequences in fit overall (Dorothy Moore is dedicating a whole chapter on neckline changes... but I will write about that another time)

Also the amount of stretch of the fabric influences the fit (and also the recovery...)!

My first muslin was made from a piece of cotton jersey without much stretch. So I accepted it would be a little tight. There was pulling above the chest towards the armpit. That's the fabric asking for a dart. Hm. And the basic pattern has a very high neckline.

First I cut out the neckline the way I like T-Shirts, which changed the whole appearance of those wrinkles. But they were still there.

I also found the shoulder width was a bit wide, so I reduced it by 1 cm on each side. And changed the paper pattern accordingly.

I also have lots of wrinkling in the lower back, because I have a sway back.

There are several options how to deal with a sway back in knit shirts.
1. Ignore it.
2. Make sure it's not a too small hip width which makes the shirt travel up.
3. Introduce a seamline in the center back. Or two. Or just two darts. Those can take up the excess fabric.
4. You can try to remove about 2-3cms (1inch) just above the waistline on the back pattern and when you assemble the shirt you stretch the side seamline about 10 cm (5inch) around that area. It works sometimes.

Oh, and those wrinkles in the front could  be removed if you introduce a side dart, either to the side seam or to the armhole.

Has anyone else got good ideas to seal with wrinkling and sway back on knit fabric?

I chose to go with option No 1 this time. After transferring all the other changes to the pattern, I made another muslin. This time I used a mad fabric which I bought years ago because I wanted to make shirts for the children from it. It's nice quality stretch jersey (i guess 95% cotton and 5% elasthane) and has a nice weight to it, which I bought in a sale because most people probably found the pattern a bit too busy. I even made a shirt for the children for it, but even on them it is a bit busy. So I had enough left to make this shirt.

I like the fit despite the wrinkling in the back and that little bit of pulling in the front. And there are a lot of sheep on this. A lohohot. I might use it for pyjamas, which makes just the right amount of sheep. I might need pyjama bottoms with dogs now, i suppose.


Sorry for not taking any pictures during the process of making it. I just assembled it.
1. Match shoulder seams. Sew.
2. Insert sleeves, Make sure front part of the sleeve is in the right place.
3. Close sleeve seam and side seam.
4. Insert neckline binding.
5. Hem sleeves and bottom.
6. Iron carefully.
Finish.

  Here's the resulting pattern and shirt though.

Actually I think the shirt fits better in real life than on this picture.
Less wrinkles around the chest.

see the wrinkles in the back -> not adapted for sway back. I can feel another muslin coming...
(And also quoting The Fast Show: "Does my bum look big in this?")

Below you will also find the description and drawing for drafting this shirt. Don't be put of by the instructions, you'll end up with you own personal shirt pattern.

Enjoy! Bah! Bah! Baaaah!

How to draft your own jersey shirt pdf

If you have questions, leave a comment!

On fitting t-shirts for FBA (I don't really need FBA, but it is interesting anyway and maybe you want to try this out!)

http://www.jenniferlaurenvintage.com/2014/06/how-to-do-full-bust-adjustment-fba-for.html
https://www.mariadenmark.com/2012/08/fitting-t-shirt-fba/
http://www.mariadenmark.com/2014/10/removing-bust-darts/

Martha Mania (Milchmonster)

A Martha Mania Collage

I've made these Marthas aaaaages ago. Years.  I've been wearing them a lot, i really love them. The pattern is great and it is perfect for busy patterns (I think...).

There are several option to the Marthas, small and big hood, shawl collar, pockets or not, sleeve options, several different top versions. I even think the Marthas are so great, they can distract from the stupid door backround. :)

Here ist the  Link to Milchmonster's Martha

The size is quite accurate, I just find the shoulders are a bit narrow, I added about 1cm at each size of the shoulder seam (towards the arm, both on back and front piece). I shortened the upper length about 1 cm.  Obviously these are individual measurement that depend on everybody's body, so it's not the patterns fault. Overall the sizing is very accurate.

The instructions are really good, I've got them in German, I don't really know whether she offers other languages, BUT I think it's easy enough to make it even if you don't understand the language, if you've made a shirt before.

Here is the Martha Parade:

Lillestoff jersey

It reminds me of Disco somehow...
the knit fabric is from www.michas-stoffecke.de - brilliant shop. 

also knit from Michas Stoffecke

Lillestoff - Monster Drops

I did the picture editing with pixlr.com, which is (at least for the moment), free and easy to use. They have some fun stuff there.

A Ruffled Skirt for me!

Yes, this is actually me. 

I've finally managed to make another skirt for myself. I had been wanting to make this ever since the weather had become colder (so for about 2 months...). And finally I managed.

I took the pattern off a skirt I had made before "The forest skirt" (that's 3,5 years now...). Back then I had taken the pattern off a RTW skirt, had extended the skirt (more pronounced, or broad-legged A shape). What I didn't do was to adjust for sway back, so on that skirt I still had to make to darts in the waistband back after finishing it, because it was gaping. Hm. Nevertheless, that skirt with its flounce and that supercute pattern became one of my favourite skirts. So I decided, I should make another one. Because I am in a "I should wear more skirts"-mood at the moment.

I still had a nice piece of wool twill from my husbands wedding suit in the stash (matured 7,5 years...) that I initially had planned to make into a Victorian riding habit but never got around to it.  uckily I should say, because when am I going to wear a Victorian Riding habit? I can't even ride horses...
I also had this black cotton voile sitting around for some years (I had planned to make a Regency gown from it... which also never happened...). These fabrics are perfect for my purposes.

I didn't find the pattern for the forest skirt any more, so I just copied the skirt itself (which means I sort of automatically adjusted for sway back because I just included the waistband "as is" and not with those darts). It worked perfectly well.

The fabric was behaving very well, even the voile, and in about 3 hours the whole thing went together. I still have slight trouble with "invisible" zippers - despite the correct zipper foot they are never really invisible. I probably don't stitch close enough to the little zipper teeth. Also the zipper is not black, but dark grey, which was all I had in my stash and it HAD to be done that day.... :) Also, my zippers hardly ever match...

For the finishing of the seam of the wool overskirt I used a cotton checkered bias tape that was lingering around in the cellar. I love finishing hems with bias tape. They come out so neat and tidy and also you can add "hidden colour" to a skirt. They also give thin fabrics a bit more substance and they have a nicer drape. I've always wanted to try out horsebraid in that aspect, but haven't managed yet.

So, nothing breathtaking this time, but a quick and easy supercomfy and very girly skirt. The ruffles are swinging with every step around my legs, I nearly feel like a princess.

I'm sorry you can't see much on the pictures - black in bad lighting ....

Satsuki dress (Victory patterns)

Quite a while ago I was given this wonderfully mad fabric as a present (thank you Rebecca!) and although I usually don't go for tie-dye (had a very intense phase when I was about 12 or so...), I immediately loved it. I shortly after stumbled across this blogpost with Victory Pattern's "Satsuki Dress" http://sallieoh.blogspot.de/2013/02/stargazer.html (she's made another one in black, also awesome!) and knew immediately: It's going to me totally mad, but that's the pattern for the fabric. It took me a while to get the pattern (because I always thought I'd suss the pattern out myself and then I thought I'd wait until summer, but then it disappeared from the homepage and I thought I better get it before it is unavailable... they probably just made an update, it is back on their homepage at the time of writing...). Anyhow, this is the company that made the pattern https://www.victorypatterns.com/ and this is where I purchased and downloaded it https://oliverands.com/product/OLV-VP-Satsu-D.html

They have other really cool brands with super great patterns. Just look at waffle patterns... but I digress. Back to Satsuki.For whatever reason it was called that. (https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Satsuki)

The fabric I had was just enough for a blouse length version and that's fine for me. The pattern is very easy and quick to assemble (did it in one evening) and the description is very clear. I can definitely recommend the pattern.
The blouse turned out as wild as I imagined and it is not something I would normally buy or make, but I somehow like it. It is perfect for a hot summer day in the garden.

Silk Sorbetto - Colette Patterns

About a year ago I had bought two small pieces of a vintage japanese silk, possibly remnants of a kimono. I had initially intended to make a small summer dress for little Miss No 1 from it, but when the fabric arrived I just couldn't see it as a child's dress... the silk seems to be handpainted/printed with leaves and the thought of chocolate ice cream on that made me cringe. So I let it mature.

Some months ago I stumbled over this free pattern Sorbetto by Colette Patterns. https://www.colettepatterns.com/catalog/sorbetto 

I made one big change - I inverted the front center pleat and only closed it up to the height of the darts to make the whole shirt nice and wide and airy for summer. 

The fabric was just enough to make the pattern (I couldn't cut the pieces on the fold though, but as the pattern is quite lively, it doesn't really show). I used french seams so the inside would look and feel nice and it was just enough fabric to make self-fabric bias tape for the neckline and the arm holes. 

I really like the outcome, although the pattern of the fabric is far more lively than what I usually wear. The silk is flowing and cool, although it is quite thick and not see-through at all. It was also very forgiving while sewing. :) 

I didn't seem to be able to put on a normal face while the picture was taken. Sorry for that. Concentrate on the shirt. 

As for the pattern: The sizing is very accurate and there is not much ease (just right) in it, so I recommend to make a mock-up from cheap fabric first to make minor changes. Apparently Colette Patterns drafts their sizes for a C-Cup, but I didn't have to make any changes that way. Possibly my wish for a very loose fit had something to do with that.

Instructions are clear, I can definitely recommend this pattern.

Make And Mend - Dots Shirt

So... it's "Make And Mend" Monday again! :)

Sunday we wanted to go to Church (I've visited Freiburg Anglican Church for the first time and it was really nice!). So on Sunday morning I pulled my favourite blouse out of the wardrobe because I thought it would be the perfect thing: It was going to be a hot day and that blouse is made of thin (but not too thin) and not too wrinkly 100% cotton, it looks semi-decent with my (freshly dyed) black linen trousers... and I LOVE it! (I bought it about 10 years ago at H&M and I just love the crazy dots. It reminds me of Marimekko a bit, somehow... and I love dots anyway... and it's happy black, too!)

So, I took it from the hanger (I didn't really pull it, since I sorted through the wardrobe I have lots of space in there) and put it on and - it had 2 holes! Big ones! And I have absolutely no idea, where they come from! Quelle horreur! I temporarily fixed it with some black thread and then when we came home tried to do it better. Here's the process:

As you can see, you can't really see the holes...

But when you look closer, they are bigger than acceptable... *sniff*

Mounted on my ironing Board (left side out)

I used pins to adapt the fabric as close as possible

And added a light-weight fusible interlining thing (like H180 vlieseline)

THis is what it looks like from the right side.

I made tiny pleats and used backstitch to secure them, just the frayed corners of the rips were concealed like this, no more.

You can see the tiny pleats here, but because the fabric has this lively pattern, they hardly show.

Finish! As Good As New! And still my favourite blouse!

So that's another item saved!

Some Raglan Shirts for the little ones... (mamahoch2)

I found this page with lots of free (or "pay as you wish") patterns just recently and wanted to share it.

They have patterns for all sizes and ages and my first deed were 6 beanie hats for the children... unfortunately in the past month (before I managed to take a picture) ALL of them have disappeared... no idea where to... I thought I had seen a survivor just a couple of days ago but there is absolutely no trace of them now. So, no pictures for you, but there are plenty on  https://www.mamahoch2.de/2013/05/muetzenparade.html

Princess Castle and Fall Basics SHIRTS (ottobre design)

I tried a basic raglan-shirt from the Ottobre Design 4/13, it  is called "fall basic". The shirt runs about 2 sized big, so instead of a 110 I made a 98. I somehow messed up the bias at the top because I didn't stretch it enough, but she loves the shirt so I didn't change it.

Size Tags - Print your own

I used to try and remember the sizes of the garments I made... which now seems a really silly idea to me... because I really can't keep track of what is what... especially with the children's clothes... so I came up with this idea of marking the sizes.

I bough some of these  t-shirt iron on transfers (although I can't quite remember whether it actually is this brand, it might be another one, but I think you get the picture. Important: it has to be for DARK clothes, so the background is white) http://www.avery-zweckform.com/avery/de_de/Produkte/Kreativprodukte/Textil_Folien/Textilfolien-fuer-farbige-Textilien_MD1003.htm?N=0&Ns=&refchannel=259c8e9a44f8c110VgnVCM1000002218140aRCRD

then i used word.docx to create my own labels which look like this. :) 

The top left is left blank intentionally: with a textile marker I fill in the different sizes. Like that I can always print of a while sheet and then fill in the size accordingly. 

I usually iron them in after I've finished them, but you can also put them in, before you put the garment together, sometimes that is easier. I don't know, why I've not come up with this idea a long time ago... So I thought I'd share this idea.

The cost depends entirely on the paper you buy (the tags are about 6x3,6cms big, I printed 21 tags on an A4 sheet so in my case that was about 5 cents per tag) plus the cost for a washproof textile marker.

I've washed them quite a lot already (children...), I have no complaints so far, the labels don't come off, the colour does fade a little bit but not too much and it is not itchy. I think it's pretty nifty.

Introduction to Dorothy Moore's Pattern Drafting and Dressmaking

As the result for my weakness for retro fashion (namely the 1950s-60s...) and after analysing quite a lot of pictures of clothes of that time, I found that one very big issue is the actual accurate fit of the garment. Something I've so far tried to ignore as much as possible. :)

While dwelling in the 18th century (sewing wise...), I found, that the proper fitting of the clothes is the key to the right look... and it made me rethink my rather casual attitude towards fitting of modern clothes. In other words: I would now prefer my 20th/21st century clothes to fit as well as my 18th century clothes. I really want to learn now and understand sewing and start doing it properly (instead of intuitively....)

My first step to understanding more about sewing techniques and patterns is to follow, page by page, lesson by lesson the book by Dorothy Moore "Pattern drafting and Dressmaking" from 1971. The plan is to follow all the instructions, understand what I am doing and to end up with innumerous muslin pieces. :)

- The book is meant to be a coursebook with 15 lesson on pattern drafting, only very basic notes on assembly are included. 
- To help me with the actual sewing techniques, I am using "Vogue Sewing" from 2006 (editor Crystal McDougald) (and the internet....).

The chapters will always be easily accessible via the page "Dorothy Moore's Patterndrafting and Dressmaking" at the top.

Before I could start drafting and cutting and sewing, I had to accomplish a few tasks, though...

1. obviously to do a lot of reading in the afore mentioned books (done that, but doesn't look very exciting, so I will spare you the details)

2. to acquire the necessary tools (fashion rulers, namely a hip curve and a big 90degree angle/set square) and brown paper and scrap fabric for the muslins.

3. to take the my correct measurements (which will remain secret for now)

4. do the preliminary "foundation work" (and take measurement with those, too, where necessary)


(Without being too indiscreet I think I can say, that the correct foundations for the time have an enormous impact on the appearance and fit of the garment. For example, without stays, a robe a l'anglaise (18th century) wouldn't look right. And you can't just use the same 18th century stays in the mid 19th century - it would look completely wrong. You'd have to make a proper corset to measure. So, in all cases, always wear the appropriate underwear. Whatever time you are sewing for: know your undies!)

So after all the preparation work and reading I started with Preparing for Dorothy (link with info about the foundations to follow when finished...) :)

(PS: I am not using a tailor's dummy for now, because I found making the changes on myself (and then transferring them directly to the patterns) works better for me... I just don't get that plastic thing to have my shape...)

Sailor Pants 1940's inspired

"look fastidious!" he said... ;)

Part of my plans to make more clothes that are actually more wearable in everyday life came true with these trousers. It is the first proper pair of modern trousers I've ever made (i.e. that make me happy and seem to fit...) and also the first time that I used a pattern from this company: www.lekala.co . They are based in Moscow and they have translated most of their patterns (they say) into some sort of English (more on that later).

What is special about their patterns is
1. they are graded to the size you want (i.e you buy one individualized size, not a multizise package)
2. they are cheap.
Of course that was tempting so I thought I'd give it a try with a trouser experiment.
This is the pattern I ordered
http://www.lekala.co/catalog/women/pants/5742
The HP is in English, the whole ordering/payment/receiving the pattern (via Email) process is straightforward and quick.

I was very sceptical, I have to admit.
I am smaller than average and curvy (big waist-hip ratio) and I was really curious if the measurement that they asked for could provide me with a pattern for a garment, that fits.
I was more than surprised to find, that apart from tiny adjustments to the hip width (but that might have been partly my mistake, I was measuring myself a bit too pessimistically, it seems...), they fit just as I had wished for. I made exactly one mockup. And took the hip side seams in a bit. That was it.
I also made small changes to the pattern -> the original pattern has a sort of one-sided front flap, mine is the same on both sides, with fully functional self-fabric covered  buttons on both sides - not necessairily needed, but I like symmetry. I also lined the front flap wiht a separate piece, not with the suggested foldover-piece - again, not really necessary, I just liked it better.

To be truly 1940s the waistline is a bit too low, if you compare pictures from the time, you'd find the waistband would have to be at least at my natural waist which is considerably higher. Considering that I usually wear lower cut jeans, they are quite high though. :) I am thinking about making a "proper" (not sailor) style pair of slacks with a proper high 1940s waist at some point, though...
I made these from medium-weight teal coloured wool gabardine. I had about 2,5 meters of that maturing on my fabric stash. I can't resist teal coloured 100% wool gabardine... 

One reason why I STRONGLY recommend making a mock up, are the instructions (and as a side effect you can check the fit, which is always good). Despite finding lots of english words in the instructions, I have only little understanding of what they wanted me to do. The pattern pieces were marked in both English and Russian. I just assembled it my own way and knowing what was supposed to be the result (a pair of trousers...) helped a lot. To assemble the bound pocket (only a faux pocket in my version) I used a German sewing book (and of course the marks on the pattern...). Having made similar trousers (the Charles trousers) for my daughter before, helped a lot, too.

My resumée:
I like their patterns, they are well adjusted to the individual size (as far as I can judge on that now), you can find something for absolutely ANY purpose and they come at a great price (3 Euros per pattern). If you have sewing experience or are not afraid of a bit of experimenting - go for it!

I hate back views, but there you go...

Have a great day!