Tuesday 31 December 2013

Tuesday 24 December 2013

Merry Christmas 2013!!

No matter whether you celebrate Christmas on 24th or 25th of December, I wish all of you a very very happy, merry Christmas 2013!

Thursday 19 December 2013

1780/90s Blue Zone Gown

Journal des Luxus und der Moden March 1793 >KLICK!!<

Above, from the 3/1793 issue of the "Journal des Luxus und der Moden" - pp. 163
"[...] 2) Aus Teutschland
vom Rhein, den 20. Febr. 1793.
hier folgen einige Bemerkungen, die ich unterm Gewuehle und Getuemmel der Kriegsheere, das sich taeglich bey uns vermehrt, ueber die neuen Geschenke der Goettin Mode, die darum nicht aussen bleiben, habe machen koennen. 
Zuerst eine Figur von der jetzigen ganz artigen Tracht unserer jungen Frauenzimmer (Taf. 7.). Ein blaues Kleid von einem seidenen FruehjahrsZeuche, weißgefuettert; Rock und Kleid uni, ohne alle Garnirung; das Corset weiß; ein weißes Halstuch von Linon und den Kopf nicht so franzoesisch hineingepackt, als wenn sich der schoene jugendliche Hals, wegen eines haeßlichen Kropfes wegen, nicht duerfte sehen lassen. Das Haar in natuerlichen Locken, nur halb gepudert, und drauf eine Art von Carcasse von Band, die aus 5 Ribben von blau und weißem Bande besteht, zwischen welchen die lockigt-frisirten Haare allenthalben durchgucken.Ueberhaupt werden Huete anjezt blos zum aeussersten Morgen-Negligee zum Anzuge aber gar nicht mehr, und zu diesem blos von jungen Personen solche Band-Carcassen, von aelteren Damen aber kleine sehr schmale Haeubchen getragen. Dieß muß ich Ihnen als etwas Neues berichten. [...]"


My previous research has led me to the conclusion for my interpretation of the zone-gown

1. It's to be worn over a "corset"
2. The back of the Gown will have 4 back panels and extra shoulder straps, Front A shape.
3. The skirt will most likely not be lined as it was rather unusual (unless i happen to find something suitable in my fabric stash).
4. worn over bum pad, no train.
5. fabric is blue, greenish iridescent silk taffeta.
6. petticoat slightly shorter for practical reasons.

With A shaped stomacher (bottom line unfinished)

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The corset is the base of the thus recycled "kitsch corset" (that I never wore, twas a good exercise in attaching bias tape though... ... ...) so really it is a version of the Period Impressions half boned stays. I have removed most of the bones and just left a few in the front and around the back lacing. I also made small changes to the front and removed the taps. Then I added two layers of ivory silk taffeta. Just one layer looked a bit thin and flimsy. I also made a A shaped stomacher, just to have another option. The Stomacher still needs a bit of shortening, but I think the general idea is clear. ;) 

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I have based the bodice on the JPR Anglaise, that fitted quite well. I then changed the front to have the A shaped gap (about 1,5" at the top and just above the highest point of the hip bones at the sides (spina iliaca anterior superior)). The front in the picture seems to be nearly at the back. I am not sure about how far back it acutally went, but I didn't want it to be too far back so I settled for hip bone. Maybe the picture sort of shows front and side at the same time for illustration (who knows...), a bit of early cubism. ;)
I made a mock-up and then changed the back panels and shoulder strap and I actually made 4 real pieces in the back (not a fake 4-pieces-back as I had initially planned). I took the Anglaise pcitured below as an example but made slight changes. As those changes moved the sleeves in a bit, I had to change the sleeve pattern accordingly (and i HATE setting sleeves in!!! Sleeves are my pet hate in sewing, I find I always have to make changes to make them look the way I want and it takes AGES!). I prefer 3/4 length sleeves to long sleeves and so I didn't extend them. Also I planned to make the bottom of the bodice back not arrow but box shaped. Unfortunately I completely forgot about altering the skirt part fabric to match so I ended up making a triangular shape. Attaching those folds neatly to the bodice was really getting to me, I needed 3 tries and due to the nature of the tafetta I had to stop and be content with the way the back pleats of the skirt are now. I have certainly learned for the next Anlaise! ;)
I initially  had planned to make another skirt for some change (in ivory, like the Corset/stomacher) but when I pinned it to the dummy to get an idea what it would look like, i really didn't like it. the white A-Shapw with white skirt underneath the turquoise just looked boring and bland. So I decided in just making on skirt in turquoise. The skirt is a bit shorter than the one on the fashion plate, for practicality.Also I had to piece the skirt back, as I ran 20cms short... you can't see it anyway, I pieced it with some black tafetta. ;) 

MetMuseum Anglaise

And I am admitting: These fabrics have been maturing in my fabric stash for more than 2 (nearly 3!!) years!!!

And that Hat is STILL absolutely mental. In the picture below her nice earrings are visible, though. A hook with a plate and something in the middle (possibly a gemstone). It's always good to know what was available back then. ;)

I'm not making it, because it reminds me of this christmas nightmare below. And I have the suspicion those bands on bands will just look like a big wobbly pouf. A "Carcasse" hat, ... REALLY!!

from amazon.

Monday 2 December 2013

Fabric is so addictive that it should be a controlled substance!!!!

so true, so so true.

Although I have been promising repeatedly, that I won't buy more fabric than I have actual sewing projects, AGAIN I couldn't resist this offer. My all times favourite Indienne fabric of the Kyoto Anglaise (Moda Fabric, French General, Maison de Garance):

Kyoto Anglaise back

I have found it on OFFER! in oyster (ok, I'm not going to be that crazy to sew it again in the same colour although there WAS a little moment of temptation - another stash, just in case this dress gets damaged... or burnt... or stolen...) BUT also in brown like this:
metmuseum.com1774, a round gown?

and a red like this:

vintagetextiles.com 1790s

at http://cotton-color.com/

for an average of 8,50 Euros/m and free delivery. Keep in mind, I am petite, I only need 4mtrs/anglaise. ;) I do admit, I don't really need more late 1780s Robe a l'Anglaise, but I feel so much calmer knowing I've got the fabric. ;) I have  not decided yet whether I should make them en fourreau or not. The brown original I think, is "en fourreau", the red one isn't. With my cream coloured one I found you don't really see the pleats. which is a shame, they need so much sewing attention. ;) And isn't this a concise sewing plan? ;)

Sunday 1 December 2013

1st December, 1st advent, 2nd birthday

It is the 1st of December, the 1 advent (don't forget to light your candle!!) and also my nieces 2nd birthday! Happy birthday Sophie!!! See you soon! XXX

Saturday 30 November 2013

Schloss Bruchsal Update

Just a few small additions to the Post about the Bruchsal Rococo Ball, thank you Michael and Diana!!!

And thank you to everyone who made this day and evening special and fun!
By the way: I noticed on these pictures how awfully modern I was dressed. ;) late 1780s... wohooo.... should have worn my Francaise, but then everybody else would have been wearing their Anglaise-dresses, i guess. ;)

lovely ladies!

into the evening light we were dancing...

I am also an unbelievably fastmoving object!

the end.

All pictures have COPYRIGHT!

Wednesday 13 November 2013

1750s Riding Habit - Janet Arnold

Let's say it's my "i'm mysterious" look. ;)

After receiving the program for the La Motte Tilly Weekend and reading the words "Hunt" "outdoor games" "Park" I was determined to whip together Janet Arnold's Riding habit (dated 1730s-50s). Luckily, the lovely Mme du Jard had copied and made the pattern previously so I could use her pattern and jacket for fitting purposes and didn't have to scale it up. :) Being a comparable size I didn't need to make many adjustments (again, lucky me...) and have come up with my version of the Riding habit. The original garment can be seen in the snowshill collection HERE.
I've started a collection of pictures of Riding habits in Pinterest, too, just in case: HERE.

I have used very dark blue loden cloth for both the jacket and the skirt (which is worn over small side hoops, rocking horse pattern, and a quilted petticoat). The pockets (which are fully funktional in the original) are just fake. 1. I would only use the hoops 2. I was running out of time. :) I didn't miss them a bit.
 I am also wearing a habit shirt, made from fine white linen, and white cotton scarf (thank you M. Beyschlag!). Out of reasons beyond my control (bad hair day...) I am not wearing a hat, which is nearly inexcusable. Concentrate on the green stockings instead.

green stockings! hunter's green maybe? So in no need of a rifle myself. ;)

here you can see another example of a riding habit with vest. and myself. and a very fine man with his rifle.

Snowshill Collection, Janet Arnold Pattern

Hoping to get some more pictures, too... :)

Sunday 10 November 2013

Chateau de la Motte-Tilly - 1768

Just a short while ago I had the pleasure of sharing a weekend at the Chateau de la Motte Tilly (you know, the one from "Dangerous Liaisons", ... Glenn Close, John Malkovich, Michelle Pfeiffer, Uma Thurman... oh lala!) with the Association Le Bosquet. Here are some impressions of the stay:
I've been wearing the Chardin Francaise (JPR), the Walpole Francaise (JPR), and a Riding Habit (Janet Arnold). All garments are more 1740s-60s, but still suitable for the late 1760s.

dans le parc du Château de la Motte-Tilly, avec Mme du Jard, black and white ( Walpole Francaise, JPR)

we're going on a bear hunt!!

Walpole Francaise

No bear but a baby on the run!

(C) Coltrane Koh

(C) Coltrane Koh

back view of Chardin Francaise (C) Coltrane Koh

(C) Coltrane Koh

(C) Coltrane Koh

I'm not quite sure...

I LOVE green stockings, Janet Arnold riding habit

you can only see about 1cm2 of it BUT i AM wearing red stockings. ;)

bye bye Chateau de La Motte-Tilly!
Please respect the Copyright of the Pictures