Wednesday 2 December 2015

Sailor Pants 1940's inspired

"look fastidious!" he said... ;)

Part of my plans to make more clothes that are actually more wearable in everyday life came true with these trousers. It is the first proper pair of modern trousers I've ever made (i.e. that make me happy and seem to fit...) and also the first time that I used a pattern from this company: . They are based in Moscow and they have translated most of their patterns (they say) into some sort of English (more on that later).

What is special about their patterns is
1. they are graded to the size you want (i.e you buy one individualized size, not a multizise package)
2. they are cheap.
Of course that was tempting so I thought I'd give it a try with a trouser experiment.
This is the pattern I ordered
The HP is in English, the whole ordering/payment/receiving the pattern (via Email) process is straightforward and quick.

I was very sceptical, I have to admit.
I am smaller than average and curvy (big waist-hip ratio) and I was really curious if the measurement that they asked for could provide me with a pattern for a garment, that fits.
I was more than surprised to find, that apart from tiny adjustments to the hip width (but that might have been partly my mistake, I was measuring myself a bit too pessimistically, it seems...), they fit just as I had wished for. I made exactly one mockup. And took the hip side seams in a bit. That was it.
I also made small changes to the pattern -> the original pattern has a sort of one-sided front flap, mine is the same on both sides, with fully functional self-fabric covered  buttons on both sides - not necessairily needed, but I like symmetry. I also lined the front flap wiht a separate piece, not with the suggested foldover-piece - again, not really necessary, I just liked it better.

To be truly 1940s the waistline is a bit too low, if you compare pictures from the time, you'd find the waistband would have to be at least at my natural waist which is considerably higher. Considering that I usually wear lower cut jeans, they are quite high though. :) I am thinking about making a "proper" (not sailor) style pair of slacks with a proper high 1940s waist at some point, though...
I made these from medium-weight teal coloured wool gabardine. I had about 2,5 meters of that maturing on my fabric stash. I can't resist teal coloured 100% wool gabardine... 

One reason why I STRONGLY recommend making a mock up, are the instructions (and as a side effect you can check the fit, which is always good). Despite finding lots of english words in the instructions, I have only little understanding of what they wanted me to do. The pattern pieces were marked in both English and Russian. I just assembled it my own way and knowing what was supposed to be the result (a pair of trousers...) helped a lot. To assemble the bound pocket (only a faux pocket in my version) I used a German sewing book (and of course the marks on the pattern...). Having made similar trousers (the Charles trousers) for my daughter before, helped a lot, too.

My resumée:
I like their patterns, they are well adjusted to the individual size (as far as I can judge on that now), you can find something for absolutely ANY purpose and they come at a great price (3 Euros per pattern). If you have sewing experience or are not afraid of a bit of experimenting - go for it!

I hate back views, but there you go...

Have a great day!