Take me to bed - Manteau de Lit

I had wanted to make a Manteau de Lit for quite a while now but despite understanding French I just really couldn't make out what on earth Garsault wanted to tell the reader about how to make that bedgown. And helpful pages on the net weren't helping me either (too little pictures, I am very visual... but have a look at this page, it's really helpful otherwise http://marquise.de/de/1700/howto/frauen/18mdelit.shtml )
It was the collar thing that threw me really. 
So after years of contemplating I decided to buy a commercial pattern for the instructions ( I have to admit I felt really stupid to buy a pattern for a 5 piece gown... ...but anyhow it just proves that sometimes it's the simple things that are most difficult...) Even after reading the instructions of the JP Ryan pattern I wasn't sure where this was going to lead, and then I just thought I'd try it with the lining first. And it was dead easy. Honestly. I am glad after all to have her instructions.
I've had some fabric leftover from the Garthwaite Anglaise which I used as the outer fabric. And I've even had a bit over to make a pieces skirt for the Anglaise. I'm really pleased with that. ... :)


So here is a picture of my comfortable Manteau de Lit. :) Perfect garment, goes with anything. Even with jeans, a feather and a funny face.

the socks! (+ can you find the little mouse?)

 The collar of the Manteau de Lit can be worn 2 different ways, either inside out (so the lining shows, which can be a nice contrast), or outside in, which I prefer for this patterned silk.

Edit 7/2015: I've made a teeny tiny slideshow on how to assemble the collar.

"Garthwaite Anglaise" - 1770s Anglaise en fourreau

I've finished my "Garthwaite Anglaise"!!! yay!

the only picture of me in the dress I could find...

 It all started with this fabric:

lovely fabric I got from www.silkresource.com

Apart from the fact that the fabric just begged me to buy it... I didn't have a real idea what to make of it. (roughly rococo was clear, though...). It's a silk lampas I ordered from www.silkresource.com. The design is called "carnation", the colour is a very light beige, "eggshell" called thing. Not what I would usually go for, but i LIKE it. Both sides of the fabric are equally appealing, it was hard to make a decision.
I also liked the fact that carnations have been flowers "with a meaning" for quite long.. -> wikipedia CARNATION
I first intended to make a 1740s Robe a la Francaise from it. BUT there were only 8yards available. Of course with a bit of tweaking that would be possible (remember, I AM petite...). BUT I also had just finished the green striped Chardin Francaise, which means I've got 2 Robes a la Francaise already that work for the 1740s/50s. And as much as I like that style, I didn't get the right feel for it. So I just put it aside for some time (remember: fabrics mature while you own them). and then I stumbled across these pictures:

Met Museum

Met Museum

Colonial Williamsburg

I love this dress: the colours are great (I wish I could have found a red like this!)

Museum at the Fashion Institute of Technology, NY

MFA Boston

With 8 yards I've had plenty of fabric to make a gown and have some more fabric left to mature. :) I had done the Anglaise en fourreau before, so no major issues here, just a few minor changes (back view).I was very torn between making an open gown or a round gown, but went for the open gown, because I like the contrasting white skirt a lot.

So, why a 1740s/50s fabric design for a 1770s Robe a l'Anglaise?
Several reasons:
It's different.
I've had quite enough of the Francaise pleating.
I like the "easy to wear" Anglaise-style. 
There are lovely extant garments with this mix. (The reason for this has been brought to my attention by the lovely Mme du Jard: Many people got fabrics for their christening and then would use them for a special dress, possibly even the wedding dress, in their 20s. tadaaa, a bit of calculating and you've got it! So not only though processing and altering garments but also through hording (!) fabrics you could get this result)
And last but not least: the fabric spoke to me. Ever had that feeling? ;)


So this is my "Garthwaite Anglaise". :) Sorry, I haven't got pictures with me inside, but it's 36 degrees Celsius (about 95 degrees Fahrenheit...) here and I just can't force myself into the stays.
Oh, and why is it called the "Garthwaite Anglaise"? Because the fabric design really reminds me of this wonderful designer, Anna Maria Garthwaite, see my blogpost about her -> HERE

yes, wrong pins, use your IMAGINATION!

edit 7/2015:
After making a Manteau de Lit from the leftovers I still had a bit of fabric left to make a skirt. I had to piece the back, but I don't think thats a problem. :)

Embroidered Stomacher 1770s Jacket

JPRyan Jacket with embroidered stomacher

Although really I've been planning to do some other sewing (a modern skirt, unfortunately I discovered half way through, that I didn't have enough fabric in stock to finish it (half of the back pannel ....oops!) so I had to postpone the project and do something else. I've had this stomacher, that I had embroidered about 1,5 years ago, sitting around. I originally wanted to fit it to the Walpole Francaise, but it didn't quite work together so it... matured. Then after making Mr. B's 1750s suit there was JUST enough fabric left to make a little jacket with stomacher front for myself (coincidence?). The green of the jacket is nearly exactly the same as in the embroiderey. So I got my beloved JP Ryan Jacket pattern out again and just did it. Out of reasons I don't understand, the front sleeve/shoulder bit is a bit tight, but the wool and the linen lining will give in quite a bit, I think. I (again!) had most trouble setting the sleeves, my main problem here being the difference between left and right. Oh joy and fun, especially if you've cut away the seam allowance already... it did work out in the end and I am really happy with the result. The pictures show the jacket worn with a hooped petticoat  because i just CAN'T find my bum pad. Just use a bit of imagination. And while you're at it: imagine the multiplug away... ;)
As to authenticity. I don't know. Honestly. I've seen a lot of stomachers with the most beautiful embroidery you can image, but I think they were all dated a few decades before. Personally I think it works for the 1770s though. Maybe a little old fashioned or a "revamped" jacket, sort of. I've omitted the lacing of the jackets (that the pattern suggests) because I think it would be a bit much - busy embroidery AND lacing. So it is closed with pins.

the simple back view

Have a lovely week!

Hertzwerk

1740s Ensemble inspired by Liotard's "la belle chocolatiere" 1743-5

Finally I have come up with my version of "La belle chocolatiere" by Liotard. Although I've made the mock-up a while ago it always takes me ages to get going on the real thing. I'm just so worried to cut the nice silk!!!! :) Anyway, I've done it now. A bit further below you find the inspirational picture, a real beauty. As I've not had the chance to see the original painting, I had to make a lot of guesswork concerning the colour. Also, of course, the pattern is really just inspired by this, I have absolutely no idea, whether the back folds are really made this way. I also have decided against front lacing. I am quite sure that in the picture the jacket is lacing in the front and also isn't quite closed (which might explain the odd fichu - apron situation). My jacket is front closing with needles. I am wearing the skirt over a bum pad, the bonnet is made from linen.
 

the chocolatiere also needs recreational time... please ALSO note the adoring daisy decoration in monsieurs side curls. ;)

La belle chocolatiere, Liotard, 1743-45

La belle chocolatiere, Liotard, 1743-45, detail

I do admit these pictures on the dressform aren't really doing the ensemble justice, but I am hoping to get some proper pictures of it at some point soon (more springish... we've just had a snow-rain-something shower...). Also the colours of my dress are really different,   darker... but well... are they ever what they seem, colours on photos and on the internet??? Anyway, I've also just taken side views, like in the portrait. 

with fabric giving the impression of the bib like in the painting

just an apron

jacket and skirt

detail collar

The plain bonnet in thin white linen is made following this pattern from Durantextiles

1780/90s Blue Zone Gown

Journal des Luxus und der Moden March 1793 >KLICK!!<

Above, from the 3/1793 issue of the "Journal des Luxus und der Moden" - pp. 163
"[...] 2) Aus Teutschland
vom Rhein, den 20. Febr. 1793.
hier folgen einige Bemerkungen, die ich unterm Gewuehle und Getuemmel der Kriegsheere, das sich taeglich bey uns vermehrt, ueber die neuen Geschenke der Goettin Mode, die darum nicht aussen bleiben, habe machen koennen. 
Zuerst eine Figur von der jetzigen ganz artigen Tracht unserer jungen Frauenzimmer (Taf. 7.). Ein blaues Kleid von einem seidenen FruehjahrsZeuche, weißgefuettert; Rock und Kleid uni, ohne alle Garnirung; das Corset weiß; ein weißes Halstuch von Linon und den Kopf nicht so franzoesisch hineingepackt, als wenn sich der schoene jugendliche Hals, wegen eines haeßlichen Kropfes wegen, nicht duerfte sehen lassen. Das Haar in natuerlichen Locken, nur halb gepudert, und drauf eine Art von Carcasse von Band, die aus 5 Ribben von blau und weißem Bande besteht, zwischen welchen die lockigt-frisirten Haare allenthalben durchgucken.Ueberhaupt werden Huete anjezt blos zum aeussersten Morgen-Negligee zum Anzuge aber gar nicht mehr, und zu diesem blos von jungen Personen solche Band-Carcassen, von aelteren Damen aber kleine sehr schmale Haeubchen getragen. Dieß muß ich Ihnen als etwas Neues berichten. [...]"

So,

My previous research has led me to the conclusion for my interpretation of the zone-gown

1. It's to be worn over a "corset"
2. The back of the Gown will have 4 back panels and extra shoulder straps, Front A shape.
3. The skirt will most likely not be lined as it was rather unusual (unless i happen to find something suitable in my fabric stash).
4. worn over bum pad, no train.
5. fabric is blue, greenish iridescent silk taffeta.
6. petticoat slightly shorter for practical reasons.

With A shaped stomacher (bottom line unfinished)

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The corset is the base of the thus recycled "kitsch corset" (that I never wore, twas a good exercise in attaching bias tape though... ... ...) so really it is a version of the Period Impressions half boned stays. I have removed most of the bones and just left a few in the front and around the back lacing. I also made small changes to the front and removed the taps. Then I added two layers of ivory silk taffeta. Just one layer looked a bit thin and flimsy. I also made a A shaped stomacher, just to have another option. The Stomacher still needs a bit of shortening, but I think the general idea is clear. ;) 


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I have based the bodice on the JPR Anglaise, that fitted quite well. I then changed the front to have the A shaped gap (about 1,5" at the top and just above the highest point of the hip bones at the sides (spina iliaca anterior superior)). The front in the picture seems to be nearly at the back. I am not sure about how far back it acutally went, but I didn't want it to be too far back so I settled for hip bone. Maybe the picture sort of shows front and side at the same time for illustration (who knows...), a bit of early cubism. ;)
I made a mock-up and then changed the back panels and shoulder strap and I actually made 4 real pieces in the back (not a fake 4-pieces-back as I had initially planned). I took the Anglaise pcitured below as an example but made slight changes. As those changes moved the sleeves in a bit, I had to change the sleeve pattern accordingly (and i HATE setting sleeves in!!! Sleeves are my pet hate in sewing, I find I always have to make changes to make them look the way I want and it takes AGES!). I prefer 3/4 length sleeves to long sleeves and so I didn't extend them. Also I planned to make the bottom of the bodice back not arrow but box shaped. Unfortunately I completely forgot about altering the skirt part fabric to match so I ended up making a triangular shape. Attaching those folds neatly to the bodice was really getting to me, I needed 3 tries and due to the nature of the tafetta I had to stop and be content with the way the back pleats of the skirt are now. I have certainly learned for the next Anlaise! ;)
I initially  had planned to make another skirt for some change (in ivory, like the Corset/stomacher) but when I pinned it to the dummy to get an idea what it would look like, i really didn't like it. the white A-Shapw with white skirt underneath the turquoise just looked boring and bland. So I decided in just making on skirt in turquoise. The skirt is a bit shorter than the one on the fashion plate, for practicality.Also I had to piece the skirt back, as I ran 20cms short... you can't see it anyway, I pieced it with some black tafetta. ;) 

MetMuseum Anglaise

And I am admitting: These fabrics have been maturing in my fabric stash for more than 2 (nearly 3!!) years!!!

And that Hat is STILL absolutely mental. In the picture below her nice earrings are visible, though. A hook with a plate and something in the middle (possibly a gemstone). It's always good to know what was available back then. ;)

I'm not making it, because it reminds me of this christmas nightmare below. And I have the suspicion those bands on bands will just look like a big wobbly pouf. A "Carcasse" hat, ... REALLY!!

Schloss Bruchsal Update

Just a few small additions to the Post about the Bruchsal Rococo Ball, thank you Michael and Diana!!!

And thank you to everyone who made this day and evening special and fun!
By the way: I noticed on these pictures how awfully modern I was dressed. ;) late 1780s... wohooo.... should have worn my Francaise, but then everybody else would have been wearing their Anglaise-dresses, i guess. ;)

lovely ladies!

into the evening light we were dancing...

I am also an unbelievably fastmoving object!

the end.

All pictures have COPYRIGHT!