Tuesday, 24 July 2018

Premade Pattern vs Self-draft pattern

When I started drafting patterns, I thought something like "wow, this is so cool, I can now draft EVERYTHING I would like to sew/wear". And while in theory, that is true, the reality of it is a little different.

I am not a seamstress. I need instructions. I can now draft patterns (a little), I can put them together somehow and I understand a lot better now, what changes are neccessary to make them fit better. (Which is why starting to draft patterns and making lots of toiles is a great way to get to know your physiognomy and fit issues and how to solve them)

But I lack the actual sewing skills. There are so many ways to put garments together and to construct them - I don't even know where to get all of that information. Even my Vogue sewingbook, despite being very full of information, didn't really give me the answer how to construct a garment.

And that's when Premade patterns are really good. If you have a premade pattern from a company that gives lots of help and hints on constructing the garment, you can go further from that. (I really like the instructions from closet case patterns, scroop patterns and ottobre design, just to name a few)- I love learning from them and getting to know their methods of assembling clothes. The little tricks and good shortcuts. And hints, where you really should not take a shortcut...

I've now drafted a few garments for myself, but for me, the advantage of a premade pattern are clearly the instructions.

Funny enough, I only understood what "a good fit" is, when I got into my little bit of 18th century sewing. If the bodice crumples over the stays, it is just not good. That's not the way it is supposed to be. If the stays are uncomfortable - they don't fit. It took me quite a while to get from historical clothing to modern sewing ... but now I am enjoying even more to make my every-day self-made wardrobe. The way I want. Not what fashion magazines tell me to wear. And RTW that doesn't fit anyway.

I can only encourage everyone out there to do a bit of pattern drafting (e.g. a basic pencil skirt and a basic bodice) and then after understanding your bodyshape - go for indie patterns!

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