Monday, 27 January 2014

Analysing - robe a la turque- 1780s

While searching for pictures of theAnglaise gown with the a-shaped front ("Zone Gown") I have been stumbling across 2 kinds of dresses: The "Robe a la Turque" and the "Robe a la Circassienne". In this post I am going to have a closer look at a few fashion plates (also see the Pinterest folder for reference and more pictures).

As far as I understand, the Robe a la Turque has been described in fashion plates in the mid- to end-1780s. I've found one example from 1780. It seems basically to be an overdress with short sleeves, worn over a long sleeved top of some sort. In some fashion plates it looks rather fitted, in other rather loose, like a light overgown. Mysterious!

 Robe of green and grey (or violet? or black?) over yellow top.

Cabinet des Modes, Novembre 1786 robe a la turque

 Red Robe over white top with yellow front lacing.

Robe a la turque - Magasin des Modes, Janvier 1788

rose Robe ober white top with cuffs in same rose colour
Robe a la turque - Cabinet des Modes, Juin 1786
Robe a la Turque - Magasin des Modes, Juillet 1788
"La jeune Eglé pleurant l'absence de son amant: elle est habillée d'une robe à la Turque avec des manches de gaze qui sont retroussées par des rubans, elle est coeffée en cheveux au coquelicot", Gallerie des Modes, 1786; MFA 44.1648

This one has the skirt cut extra!!
Robe a la Turque Magasin des Modes, Juillet 1787

Here comes some confusion about Turque or Circassienne, just to show that maybe it's not as strictly divided as we might think. I like to think of it as a Robe a la Turque, though:
 The 3 following fashion plates seem to belong together.
"Robe à la Turque ou espèce de Circassienne, mais différa.te des autres; elle a un collet comme une robe en Lévite, et une très grande écharpe blanche nouée à la ceinture; le juppon coupé; aucune garniture. Cette robe dont nous donnerons le développement de profil et par derriere, attira tous les yeux du Public, lorsquelle parut pour la premiere fois au Palais Royal, au mois de juillet dernier 1779", Gallerie des Modes, 1779; MFA 44.1436
What seems to be the typical back view of a Robe a la Turque: Bodice and Skirt in one piece with inverted pleats opening to give fullness.
1780 French Fashion Plate - Style: Robe a la Turque

"Robe à la Turque, la même expliqué au vingt septieme Cahier No. 159, elle est ici dévelopé de Profil ou Trois-quart", Gallerie des Modes, 1780; MFA 44.1466

 This one is a bit puzzling... it doesn't seem to be open in the front, yet it is called "a la turque" ?!
"L'aimable Constance tenant en lesse un Chien-Lion et rêvant à celui que son coeur aime: sa robe est à la Turque et son chapeau à la Mongolfier, pose sure une baigneuse, et ceint d'un ruban attaché d'une boucle à l'Angloise avec un panache", Gallerie des Modes, 1784; MFA 44.1587

Also some artists pictured the robe a la turque:
This might be a robe a la turque worn over very wide sleeves. But as we haven't got the front view... who knows...
Charlotte, Lady Milnes, 1788-1792 Robe a La Turque
 Just nice! Looks quite like the RObe a la TUrque. Short sleeves, worn over another dress, rather loose.
Marie-Louise-Elisabeth Vigée-Lebrun (French artist, 1755-1842)  Louise Marie Adelaide de Bourbon in a robe a la turque 1789

And finally here, an original Gown! Awfully like those 3 fashion plates from 1780, isn't it?!

Robe a la turque, ca. 1789; Nordiska museet NMA.0052362
Robe a la turque, ca. 1789; Nordiska museet NMA.0052362


Soon, I shall be posting a few observation about the Robe a la Circassienne.

You know something more about the Robe a la Turque? Tell me!


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