Sunday 7 September 2014

1790s jacket from IMATEX

My latest project is this 1790s jacket inspired by a 1790s jacket from the Imatex (Centre de Documentació i Museu tèxtil) here:
you can access lots of stuff there, if you want to look at the 1790s jacket, go to advanced search, then search for Register number 11551, then go to "full record" and voilà you can see pictures and read a despription in Catalan. I don't really understand catalan, but I think it's a children's jacket (they say) and the pictures do explain the rest. I call it the "Imatex jacket" (for obvious reasons).
What threw me a bit was, that I couldn't find many fashion plates depicting similar jackets. The ones that could be called similar were from fashion plates in the 1780s, but I suppose that doesn't mean much.
The following 3 pictures show the original jacket from the IMATEX collection.

original Imatex 1790s jacket

original Imatex 1790s jacket

original Imatex 1790s jacket.

This is the view of my pattern:
I've used the JPR Anglaise pattern as a start and then worked away on it. The sleeves are from Wingeo 207, but again, altered quite a bit (as I am NOT a giant). 

and these are the fabrics
silk repp in light cream with dots, silk damask in light blue/beige, ivory silk taffeta (for lining). Soutache apricot (not pictured) :)

I've used peach coloures soutache (2,5mm wide), about 12 metres. At first I was really sceptic about it, but I've used a colour scheme thingy on the internet called Paletton and determined the complementary colour to my blue-grey-brown silk was, in fact, peach. Wow, they did know what they were doing abck then. :)
So I dived in head first and attached the soutache. I am NOT a peach person... really. But I like the result. ;)
My biggest problem (apart from sleeves, right and left, buttonsholes patience and stuff like that) was to get fabric for the sleeve buttons matching the soutache - apricot  IS A NIGHTMARE! I did manage after months of repetitive visits to the fabric store (selfless...). :)

 And here are  pictures of the result:

 I am planning to make a matching hat like this for it, but have not got the materials for it yet (apart from the feathers and the black ribbon...)


  1. Beautiful! I believe that this jacket may be in the Maja style. I made an earlier Maja outfit, this might give you some ideas:

    1. Hei Kendra, thank you! The jacket is definitely something very special and yes, considering the Majismo movement in Spain at that time it could well be that it is inspired by that. Which would also account for the lack of examples in (mainly) French Fashion plates. :) I had lots of fund making it anyway and now will just have to wait for an opportunity to wear it. ;)Oh and I DO love you Maja outfit, a painting come alive!