1790s jacket from IMATEX

My latest project is this 1790s jacket inspired by a 1790s jacket from the Imatex (Centre de Documentació i Museu tèxtil) here:
you can access lots of stuff there, if you want to look at the 1790s jacket, go to advanced search, then search for Register number 11551, then go to "full record" and voilà you can see pictures and read a despription in Catalan. I don't really understand catalan, but I think it's a children's jacket (they say) and the pictures do explain the rest. I call it the "Imatex jacket" (for obvious reasons).
What threw me a bit was, that I couldn't find many fashion plates depicting similar jackets. The ones that could be called similar were from fashion plates in the 1780s, but I suppose that doesn't mean much.
The following 3 pictures show the original jacket from the IMATEX collection.

original Imatex 1790s jacket

original Imatex 1790s jacket

original Imatex 1790s jacket.

This is the view of my pattern:
I've used the JPR Anglaise pattern as a start and then worked away on it. The sleeves are from Wingeo 207, but again, altered quite a bit (as I am NOT a giant). 

and these are the fabrics

silk repp in light cream with dots, silk damask in light blue/beige, ivory silk taffeta (for lining). Soutache apricot (not pictured) :)

I've used peach coloures soutache (2,5mm wide), about 12 metres. At first I was really sceptic about it, but I've used a colour scheme thingy on the internet called Paletton and determined the complementary colour to my blue-grey-brown silk was, in fact, peach. Wow, they did know what they were doing abck then. :)
So I dived in head first and attached the soutache. I am NOT a peach person... really. But I like the result. ;)
My biggest problem (apart from sleeves, right and left, buttonsholes patience and stuff like that) was to get fabric for the sleeve buttons matching the soutache - apricot  IS A NIGHTMARE! I did manage after months of repetitive visits to the fabric store (selfless...). :)

 And here are  pictures of the result:

 I am planning to make a matching hat like this for it, but have not got the materials for it yet (apart from the feathers and the black ribbon...)

Zeilitzheim 1763 - Treaty of Paris

(C) Claudia Behnke

1763 - The Seven Years War is finally over and the Treaty of Paris has been signed. Enough to travel to Zeilitzheim and celebrate in the more than pleasant company of fellow costumers. I am quite good at escaping the camera so again there is little evidence of my activities... but here's what I've got so far:

(C) Claudia Behnke

I just can't help wriggling around... due to that fact my pinner cap was all over the place... ;)

I had the please to wear the riding habit of the wonderful Mme du Jard.

1780s Jacket JPR

 
Ich bin ganz verrückt nach Mustern im Moment! :) Weil ich von dem Schnittmuster von JPRyan für die Jäckchen so begeistert war und schon immer mal was mit Stomacher haben wollte, soll es aus diesem Stoff sein. :)
Die Schnürung ist noch nicht die endgültige, aber für den ersten Eindruck geht's doch. :)

I am so fond of this pattern!! :) I have followed JPR Jackets patterns that I have tried before in the 1761 project, this time a different model for 1780s with stomacher though. The lacing is not the definite one yet, but it is ok for the first impression I have decided. ;)

1761 country life - Leben auf dem Lande

Und so sieht das 1750s Ensemble im Kontext aus!! Mit der IGHA war ich unterwegs im Hohenlohischen - im Freilichtmuseum Wackershofen, wo wir ein ganzes Wochenende lang leben konnten wie 1761. Es war wunderbar. Küchenarbeit, Singen, Tanzen, Lachen, Schlafen und viel mehr das alles in einem so wunderschönen Haus! Die Bilder unterliegen Copyright!

Viele Bilder gibt es leider noch nicht (kommt noch...) aber hier schon mal ein  Video und ein paar Schnappschüsse:
Video: Wackershofen 2011

And this is what it looked like in 1761! A full weekend I was with a group specialising on living history and we did live it, indeed! :) kitchen work, singing, laughing, dancing, eating, drinking, sleeping and so much more in an absolutely stunning historic house and surrounding (it is a whole museal village). Please respect the copyright of the pictures.

1750s Rococo Jacket JPR

Irgendwie hat es mich gepackt und ich wollte unbedingt noch eine weitere kleine Leinenjacke nähen... Diesmal nach dem Schnitt von J.P. Ryan - Jackets (1750er-1780er). Es sollte nochmal eine 1750er werden, einfach, etwas länger und mit zugestecktem Frontverschluss. Und wiedermal die "winged cuffs". :) Ich bin ganz begeistert von diesem Schnitt. Die Masse sind sehr exakt, die Markierungen passen super. er geht schnell und einfach zusammen - einfach toll. Ich habe die Jacke aus Leinen genäht, relativ grobes Leinen vom schwedischen Möbelhaus. Innen naturweiss, aussen mittelgrau und am Schluss habe ich alles mit "Rot" von Simplicol übergefärbt. Ich färbe sehr gern, das ist so spannend!!! :) Das Schnittmuster kann ich sehr empfehlen. Was man beachten sollte ist, dass Leinen bei Nähten, die schräg zum Fadenverlauf liegen, gern nachgibt... das Problem hatte ich bei der Jacke von La Fleur de Lyse schon. Es empfiehlt sich, von innen mit einem Band zu verstärken oder mit aufnügelbarem Nahtband oder so, damit es sich nicht verzieht. Ich werde das zumindest beim nächsten Mal machen... und wieder was gelernt, mit Leinen hatte ich vorher so noch nie genäht. :) Und gebügelt wird das Jäckchen auch noch. :)

I somehow had the urge to sew another Jacket. This time I tried a JPR Jacket Pattern. I did Model A, suitable for the 1750s, with closed front and winged cuffs. The patterns was very easy to work with, very exact measurements, a treat. I hardly had to alter anything (only upper length, as usual). The only problem I face was the fact (that I didn't take into consideration at all, the same happened with the La Fleur de lyse mantelet) - linen if not cut straight to grain will ease and ease... I think next time i will use fusible seamtape or so to prevent the "skirt" and the neackline from travellig. really, I have learnt quite a bit about linen ( i.e. sewing technique...) this time time. Anyway, I used off-white linen as lining and mid-grey linen for the outer shell. After sewing I died it with a bright red and was really curious how it would turn out. (that's why I love dying fabrics, you never quite know how it turns out!) :) And I promise, I will do some ironing previous to wearing it. :)

1750s La Canadienne Complete

Um das gesamte Bild abzurunden hier die absolut notwendigen Dinge, die eine Frau so braucht: Eine Haube (La Fleur de Lyse 18101 Caps and Coifs) das Modell "La cornette". Dann natürlich noch ein Fichu und  Holzschuhe. :) Selbstgestrickte rote Stockings aus Wolle sollen noch folgen. :) Mein Körchen ist bestimmt mit allerlei feinen Sachen gefüllt!



To finish off the 1750s outfit, here you can see the fichu and apron following La Fleur de Lyse 18101. For decency: the cap is "La Cornette" of the La Fleur de Lyse 18101. And to keep my feet warm and cosy in the wooden clogs: a set of self-knitted stockings in red wool is to follow. :)
And of course my little basket is filled with all sorts of goodies! :)