Marilyn's Dresses - "Misfits" headpiece

I've had a little bit of time to do things "DIY" (when not looking after the baby) and the first thing is an early 1960s headpiece, inspired by Marilyn Monroes headpiece from the film "The Misfits" (1961) (pictures further down).

Version 1

How come?


I've loved this picture ever since I saw it for the first time (which is a loooong time ago...). But only now I've come to the point where I started thinking about making the outfit myself. This year, starting with the headpiece.The dress and jacket are to come later in 2016.

As always, it is not as easy as it seems. My first thought was - that's just a bit of Chenille wire with a bit of bobble veiling. And then you start looking closer. (lots of pictures following) - and then I ended up watching the film. :) "The Misfits" on Youtube. :) https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1lQ7xQfNMmc


1. the veiling: it's fine black veiling with different size bobbles - small at the top and slightly bigger at the bottom. That's a real problem. Modern veiling usually has bigger nets (this one seems quite delicate) and bigger (if not to say huge) bobbles/dots. And how on earth is it attached???

2. I was torn between thinking it was a melusine fascinator and chenille wire attached and thinking it was really just chenille wire. it looks SO NEAT!

Conclusion: 
From the pictures alone my question (hat or chenille wire) couldn't be answered, but watching the film (and the headpiece already appears in the first 15mins) did help (and it happens to be a good albeit slightly strange film) :) It is indeed a headpiece made from black (chenille?) wire, attached to the aforementioned veiling. In the back it has two little bows - she's wearing it over a french twist/bun hairdo. Beautifully simple and elegant!


My versions:

Nice black chenille wire is not a problem, I found it right away. But the veiling was a problem... you don't get netting as fine as the one on the picture and you also don't get fine netting with chenille dots like that...


I made a prototype first because I wasn't quite sure how that veiling was actually attached. I am still not sure, but I like it this way best. :) 

the prototype

After looing for modern veiling with suitable dots (not available) and vintage veiling with suitable dots (didn't find anything in black and with dots in exactly the right places and it's also ridiculously expensive) I decided to make my own chenille bobble veiling.

Version 1
I continued using the prototype and experimented with different size chenille wire. Yes, the ordinary one from the arts and crafts shop. It might not be as great as millinery chenille wire, BUT it is available and looks okay, too, I think. When I finished I noticed I had attached the bobbles the wrong way round... the fat ones need to be at the bottom... I do like this version a lot though, nearly better than Version 2.

bobbles wrong way round BUT at least I look friendly, don't I?

Version 2
I made a new frame, slightly bigger tulle bows at the back and fat bobbles at the top and the rows with the dots slightly different from both prototype and original ;) 

sorry, not as neatly attached as I would like it but I didn't have the time

Sorry there is no back view, I will try and add one later, the back looks pretty much like the original. black wire and two small bows. :)

The original:

all pictures from Pinterest. and here somewhere https://www.pinterest.com/hertzwerk/marilyn ) These pictures were taken 1960 in Reno and on the Set of "The Misfits". 

Film:

better back view. It's really just a wire.

Getting into millinery - the materials

Because of the fitting issues connected with my post-pregnancy shape, I am getting into millinery this year. I've always wanted to do that anyway ... :)
(yes, I am pausing woolly things for now - what good is a warm scarf or poncho in July at 35 degrees Celsius?  - and I am planning to get into sewing again by the end of 2015/beginning 2016)

A word on millinery:
Millinery is a highly specialized trade. It's not something you just "do". It requires not only special equipment and material but also knowledge and skills. Something that you usually learn in years of an apprenticeship and refine all though your life.
I am hoping to acquire some skills in the future, but you never know what happens.
I am expecting this to be a long and hard ride with successes and setbacks, with good ideas that turn out completely horrible and mistakes that turn out wonderfully. I am hoping to be able to use these skills for my historical projects as well as vintage inspired headwear for "everyday" (1920s cloches, 1950s headpieces).This will include covered buckram frames as well as felt based hats.

Hatmaking/Millinery also includes making the decorations yourself - e.g. work with feathers or making silk flowers from scratch. I have to be honest - I'd LOVE to be able to make one of those hilariously big and beautiful silk peonies or silk roses, but I am not sure, whether I am ever going to get there. Especially the japanese flower making art seems so appealing...  Making something like this would be great, wouldn't it?

from an alaya bar ad, google, never mind the jewellry, look at the flowers!!

Anyway, back to millinery:

It all started with always wanting a properly fitting 1920s cloche. And never finding one. And then I stumbles across free-form hat blocking (see e.g. here, a video on youtube.com: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-Nj0bBbkBA8)

And then I found this book:

http://us.macmillan.com/books/9780312656867

I really like this book, the author gives an overview over materials first. What I REALLY appreciate was her suggestions to use an old fashioned waterkettle to generate steam. So far I had only found apologetic "yeah, these professional steamers are, like, really expensive, but what can you do..." (you can only get these apparently jiffy steamers (Germany)). And to  be completey honest with you, I didn't really think spending about 250 Euros just to do a bit of millinery on just a steamer was quite worth it.

I also got this one:
It is in German and it focusses on modern millinery, too, with reference to stuff available in Germany.
People don't wear headwear as much here, so it's more difficult to get things.

(picture form amazon.de)

So over the last months I have slowly started to collect the ingredients

An old fashioned water kettle.
You can't see it, but it is big. It can contain about 4 litres and the bottom circumference is about 22cms. I love the spout. I could even make tea in it. It is in perfect, spotless condition, looks as if it had never been used before. Or just really gently. It should produce lots of lovely steam. :)

(picture from ebay.de bidding)

And lots of bits and bobs

- sturdy needles (I got some that are meant for model plane making, they have a finger friendlich plastic top, "Stoßnadeln")
- for a start simple wool felt cones (I prefer the softer surface of melusine or peachbloom, but for practising simple ones should do) and plain 100% wool felt pieces
- millinery wire (Hutdraht)
- millinery needles (Modistennadeln)
- suede brush (Rauhlederbürste)
- felt stiffener (this proved to be the most difficult part, more on this in a later post) and brushes
- water spray bottle
- petersham ribbon (cotton/viscose blend) (Ripsband)
- and last but not least a hat block

- due to the need for experiments regarding felt stiffener I got a small fascinator hat block, so I could try out different stiffening techniques before ruining the felt cones.

(picture from etsy.com, easyhatblocks)

- For free form hat blocking a hat block like this is required, you can also use it for small headpieces, fascinators and wig-dressing. We'll see to that later. Due to the need to experiment with the stiffener first,

(picture from etsy.com, borsolino)

The hat blocks are the biggest investment if you want to get into millinery...

So long!

From http://www.alice-in-wonderland.net/alice2a.html

Coming up next in millinery: the felt stiffener project.

Another patchwork baby blanket

Out of obvious reasons I have not been tailoring much for myself recently (don't even imagine fitting a Robe a l'Anglaise over an uberdimensional bump...), but I've been busy making things for Miss L. and the expected baby. For example a baby blanket with her name and a tiny little Suit (minikrea - Heldragt). http://minikrea.dk/newborn/newborn10550.html
I haven't got a picture of the suit here at the moment, just imagine it in red fleece with white dots. :) Simple. Ladybirdlike.  As usual, Minikrea pattern - very easy, no problem, nice outcome. slightly on the large side.

The patchwork is not "real", it's just patches fused on vlieseline and then sewn together, nearly idiot-proof (I made the blanket for our older daughter and managed to get it wrong... ah well... practise makes perfect... they say...) (I used ottobre design instructions to do that, as far as patchwork is concerned I also need instruction to cheat.) :)
 And here is the result.

 Have a lovely week!

To compare, this is blanket No 1
http://hertzwerk-freiburg.blogspot.de/2012/05/patchwork-baby-blanket.html

Juniper Wishing Scarf - knitting

Sooo, my first knitting project, the mitts, have sort of ... stopped... I had finished one mitt and although the size was ok and everything I wasn't really happy with it. So I stopped. :) But it was a nice exercise in counting and lace knitting.

I then started with the Juniper Wishing Scarf from the book "Woodland Knits" by Stephanie Dosen. You can have a look here on her Blog: https://tinyowlknits.wordpress.com/ and here: https://tinyowlknits.wordpress.com/juniper-wishing-scarf/
I think she's doing adorable stuff. :)

It was really simple. And I really enjoyed knitting cables... (for the first time) :) And it didn't take that long, all in all about a week or so. :)

I didn't use the recommended wool (would have been like 60 Euros or so...MAD!) but this one: http://www.katia.com/lana.php?idLana=peru&lng=DE
An Alpaca, Wool, Polyacryl mix, wonderfully soft and warm and cosy. About the same thickness I think. The shade is a blueish, greenish teal. Looks much nicer than on the pictures! 

1806 - Cantab Hat

I am making my way into millinery (yes, another thing on the "what to do if you can't fit clothes"-list)...

Without any special reason I made the Cantab Hat (1806) by Lynn McMasters (http://lynnmcmasters.com/). It is apparently inspired by Napoleonic Polish Lancers and Cambridge Graduates' hats. (although I have to say I didn't find convincing pictures of either of them...). The pattern in this form is no longer available, they are split into 2 patterns - the Cantab Hat and the Regency bonnets.

So how did it turn out?

I started, as recommended, with a cardboard mock-up. And thank goodness I did, because it was HUGE!!  I could pull the whole hat with greatest ease over my ears and looked less than graceful. As I was still determined to make the hat I just had to adjust it, right. With all those curved lines, squares, circles.... right. It worked out ok in the end.

What doesn't help is, that I am not a particular fan of her instructions. I really love her work, but when it comes to explanations, my brain seems to work differently and it takes me ages to understand what she actually wants. And like with the Victorian hats, I ended up assembling the pieces in a different way anyway.

Basically, all I need from the pattern are the pieces themselves and the rest is learning by doing.  Although it is a bit sad if you have a package like that and you just feel like chucking out the instructions.

Anyway, here is the hat,
I have made it in black cotton velvet and added a bit of  white feather decoration. (this time excellent explanation with pictures on her homepage http://lynnmcmasters.com/Pompom.html .) I caused a giant mess with cutting the feathers though. I still feel a bit like a chicken. Or Ostrich. :)
The hatband and lining is black cotton voile (also attached in a slightly different way...). It should have been silk charmeuse, but I didn't have any. I've also added a few black ribbons so the feathers don't feel to alone.

the white pompom is not so easy to spot in front of the grey door... sry... I am also NOT sporting a 1806 hairdo... and I couldn't find any hat needles... so... imagination required! :)

I am really sorry I don't seem to be able to take good photographs... but I think it is clearly a hat. :)

edit 21.2.15:
I just HAD to do some more research on hats of this shape, as the pattern doesn't really give any sources or examples. This is what I found, it's not much, but then again it is SOMETHING and there might be more out there... It just sort of proves, that this sort of shape is possible. Although I would put the date rather later towards 1814 or so... but well...

1816: https://www.pinterest.com/pin/325807354268363181/ (not much of a brim and higher)
1816:  https://www.pinterest.com/pin/325807354268363177/  (no big brim and higher)
1813: https://www.pinterest.com/pin/325807354268363064/  (a lot higher BUT made from Velours/velvet)
1814: https://www.pinterest.com/pin/325807354268363105/ (this one has the best ressemblance, but made from straw) 
1806 https://www.pinterest.com/pin/325807354268363125/ (wider brim)
1801 https://www.pinterest.com/pin/325807354268223419/

getting into knitting... and crocheting.. but WHY?...

So, my 2015 project "learning how to knit (and crochet) properly" has begun.

Some of you might ask "why on earth is she doing this? Why can't she just stick to sewing?"

And there are even several answers to this question!

1. Because sewing and made to measure garments just don't make sense when you are 9 months pregnant or still have the "post-baby-belly" (for those of you not so familiar with physical changes in pregnancy remember the old saying "9 month the belly comes, 9 months the belly goes" - which adds up to 18 months of weird sizes - ideally -) - and i don't want/need that much of maternity clothes...
2. Because the children don't need that many clothes...
3. Because I couldn't resist learning something new...
4. Just LOOK at the woodland knits book, HOW can you not?!? (and theres another one just begging me to have  a look into it: botanical knits by Alana Dakos. And then you could indulge in estonian lace knits and faire island knits and norwegian patterns and and and...
5. Because for my vintage-inspired wardrobe I could do with a few of those knitted or crocheted tops/blouses ... and you can still get original instructions - what could be better? I've even seen a pattern for a 1930s crochet swim suit... Irresistable!! :) (yes, that's the real reason, really, but I am not yet couragous enough to start on those...)
 
My first project after the warming up phase (woolly hats) are mitts. They are knitted in a basic lace-pattern (Ajourmuster) in blue merino wool.  Never done mitts or Ajour before...

I am using the book "stricken basisc" by Stephanie van der Linden (a German publication, knitting proper stuff in English will be the next step). It's a basic techniques book for beginners with a few nice projects and lots of explanations. Her instructions are clear and easy to follow and the pictures that go with the intructions are really helpful. Very recommendable. They also have instructions for left-handed knitting.

My next projects are from the book "woodland knits" by Stephanie Dosen and are a lot more challenging. Unfortunately, there are also a lot of techniques involved, that the basic knitting book doesn't include, but I am going to consult youtube and knittinghelp.com and generally the internet for that. If I don't challenge myself, I will only knit garter stitch, so... I am going to learn how to knit cables, how to wrap and turn and how to knit 4 below... I might end up knitting upside down altogether. :)


Also, I think it will take me so long to master these techniques, that until then the baby bump should be ... well... considerably reduced I hope. I don't dare to hope it will go back to "before".

So, we can all look forward to weird knitted and crocheted accessoires and in the end, hopefully, vintage pattern inspired blouses/tops or even a swimsuit. ;) 

Now, if that's not a bunch of really good reasons, I don't know what to say!

monmouth cap and another one... knitting...

I've started knitting again... to get into it, I chose 2 quick and easy projects (even matching the cold snowy winterweather finally...)

4 years ago I have knitted the monmouth cap ... and then it got lost... so after contemplating (for about another year) I have decided to knit another one. :) Same instructions, even the same yarn. You can find the link to the instructions on the internet  http://www.personal.utulsa.edu/~marc-carlson/jennifer/Monmouth.htm
They are quite clear and straight forward, so nice to follow. There is also a bit of info on the history of the Monmouth Cap (dating back to the 15th century).
I really like hemmed brim, if you fold it up (like on the picture) it gives the ears triple protection against cold and wind. Really does the trick and looks good.

The perfect model for winter hats.

Easy but nice project. :) 

I also made a hat for Miss L., as usual she hates new things, but I really really like it. The colours remind me of blackforest gateau (yummy). It's just a rectangular piece knitted in garter stitch. Then sewn together at sides and top and 2 pompoms attached. Ready. I am a bit jealous (again... as usual...)..

I just can't get him to look more enthusastic, sry...

Cowl neck jumper dress for Miss L.

Sooo...

I've done some sewing for Miss L. again. A while ago I had bought some patterns from Heidi and Finn (https://www.etsy.com/shop/heidiandfinn) and finally I've got around to making the Cowl neck dress. i've chosen the size 3T which should be just about right for her age... the pattern runs a little large, I think, but the fabric is really stretchy and soft, too, so maybe it's that.

I had some medium to lightweight jersey (I think it is viscose...) lying around, I must have bought that for some other project but i REALLY don't remember what I intended to do with it in the first place. Despite the fact that it is rather thin, it has a nice drape and an acceptable weight.

Of course, as usual, Miss L. HATES new stuff...so here a picture on the hanger...

I've made an extra belt (not ties from the same fabric because I hate making small tubes, they always end up as weird sausages...), I have used a big 8 hook knitting dolly for that (Strickliesl). I think this is the first time in about 20 odd years, that I've done something with a knitting dolly. :) But i quite like it.

The pattern was a pdf download from etsy. The assembly is not too difficult but I've had other pdf patterns where it was more idiot proof. Despite that, I've managed. :)
The instructions are clear and with lots of pictures, very suitable for beginners. The pattern itself is really easy and went together well. It's really just 5 pieces (and that's counting both sleeves...) but experience tells us... if it is more than one piece, you can do it wrong. What I LOVE about the sleeves it, that they are same same for both sides. So no right-left-right-what-oh-no-wrong-AGAIN-worries. I hate sleeves...
Anyway, I can recommend this pattern. :) (actually I think I might like one of those for myself, it looks really comfy!) And a but 60s. I will keep this in mind.

Have a lovely day! - Hertzwerk.

sewing ideas for 2015 and the rest of the century!

So...

I've finally managed to get over a nasty cold that kept me out of order for about 2 weeks (yes, the holidays, what else?!)  and started thinking about 2015 in many many many ways. Also in sewing ways, of course.
And I had to face the fact, that probably most of 2015 I won't be able to sew "properly" fitted garments. At least not until October or so...  The happy reason for this is, that we are expecting our second child - but this of course means, life will be completely turned upside down (again) and if I find the time at all to do some stuff for myself (all mothers of small children will smile this weary smile now...) making fitted garment to a changing body won't make much sense. That is problem no 1.
Remembering the first months with little Miss L., a lot of carrying was involved. And walking around. With the baby in a carrysling. I've tried to sit in front of the sewing machine with a little one strapped to my front but I can assure you - it doesn't really work. That is problem no 2.

As I haven't given up hope to do at least a little bit of stuff, I am going to use this chance to cover new territory - and learn new things. Not that I had mastered sewing, far from it, BUT I think I could really do with some experience in the knitting and crocheting sector. Actually I've only crocheted one thing before (a lalylala doll, that little Miss L absolutely adores so i think I'm going to make another one...). And my knitting is... well... I wouldn't say I really know what I am doing there... So the next year will mostly be dedicated to knitting projects (I've seen some GREAT stuff out there already!!! oh my goodness, some people have magic fingers!). And sewing childrens stuff, of course, and maybe something stretchy and modern things for myself (I'm just saying "Martha"). But lets be honest, as a working mum (and after a year parental time I'm back into real life, full time work) with a lovely husband and 2 children that I ACTUALLY want to spend time with (yes, all three!) it will be a busy life. I wouldn't mind if someone managed to invent a machine where you can stop the world and have a few hours just for doing stuff (not just hobbies, also things like tax return, sorting papers, doing yoga, sleep(!), and so on). But on the other hand it makes me appreciate what I am doing even more. I've even come to terms with sewing by hand, which a few years ago, would have made me abandon a project. :)

Towards the end of this year I am going to make a Robe a l'Anglaise (you won't believe it - I've got all the material already... I am just waiting for my shape to reappear to see if and how I will still fit in my stays in October... I am going to use my favourite JPR pattern again, with slight modifications...) and I am also dedicated to do some (pattern and all) research into the 1940s-1950s (intending to wear them in everyday life) during 2015. I really enjoy sewing historical garments but I've been concentrating quite a lot on the 18th century and I would like some change.

So I am not only collecting ideas for 2015, but I am also announcing a project I am trying to pursue from late 2015 onwards:  
"A dress through the decades - from the late 16th century to the 1970s"
and I am very curious about the outcome. I am expecting to learn lots of new sewing techniques (let's not talk about the frustrations that are bound to come...) and apart from that I am also looking forward to sew some more "wearable" retro stuff for everyday life (as soon as we've established a sort of routine again...). I've pretty much covered a lot of the 18th century already, maybe a little weak on the 1790s and nothing 1700-1720. But I have absolutely no idea about the 1810s and the following years... some decades are causing serious headaches already... like the 1830s and 1890s... i'm not one for huge ridiculous sleeves...but then again... I am sure I will find some inspirational painting or print that will reconcile me with that decade and make me think that leg of mutton sleeves are the bees knees. I am also not sure about the 17th century yet - but again I have to admit I hardly know anything about it. But that's the whole point - to learn about different centuries and decades. :)
The scale of the project is rather big, too. After all, it's 10 decades per century and that means 10 dresses per century - strictly speaking it would mean 38 dresses covering 380 years... I am probably not going to be THAT strict about it and I am most certainly not going to sew chronologically (yes, exactly, it's like eating the dessert first!).
Considering my sewing speed... this project will take me YEARS if not decades. This seems daunting at first, but think about the possibilities!! Browsing through paintings, prints, books, fabrics (yay!! what chances to stash away TONS of fabric!) and learning new sewing techniques. I LOVE IT!!! This will probably keep me busy for the next 30 years. At least. Because we all know - it's not just the dress... it starts with the right undergarments with the dress come the right accessoires, shoes, hair, etc etc. The list doesn't stop.

So, basically, I've just planned the rest of my life (sewing wise). :) Does it show I'm German?
Anyway, I hope we'll have lots of fun sewing together and come up with some crazy stuff in the future!

Lots of love

Hertzwerk

New Year's Eve Reflection

Instead of giving you a full account of what I've done in the past year and how I reflect on it, I give you - a link. I found this on the net (stumbling, again...) and I thought it was quite a good idea, a nice guide through reflecting your past year.

Here's the page
http://theartofsimple.net/new-years-eve-reflection-questions/


And they also offer pdfs for free, for adults and children.
http://theartofsimple.net/wp-content/uploads/2013/12/NewYearsEveQs.pdf
http://theartofsimple.net/wp-content/uploads/2013/12/NewYearsEveQs-kids.pdf


My next year will be very busy with .... life... probably I will do less sewing, but maybe I can make it count.

I wish all of you a very happy year 2015!